Milk Street On the Road: Portland, Maine (Ep 310)

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Eventide Green Salad with Nori Vinaigrette

Start to finish: 30 minutes, plus cooling and chilling | Servings: 6

This is our adaptation of a salad created by Eventide Oyster Co. in Portland, Maine. Roasted seaweed (also called nori) is pulverized to a coarse powder and added to the dressing, lending the dish deep, umami-rich flavor notes reinforced with soy sauce and mirin. Instead of using full- sized sheets of plain nori (the variety used for sushi), we opted for the convenience of an individual package of seasoned seaweed snacks that are available in most grocery stores. Quick-pickled veggies give the salad lots of texture and bright flavor, but keep in mind that they need to pickle for at least 2 hours before they’re ready to use. To shave the carrot, run a sharp vegetable peeler down the length of the vegetable.

Don’t use a reactive bowl to make the pickles or the vegetables and liquid may take on an “off” metallic flavor. It’s best to use glass, ceramic or stainless steel. Don’t dress the salad until you’re ready to serve so that the greens stay fresh and crisp (if left to stand after dressing, they’ll wilt from the pickles’ acidity and weight).

INGREDIENTS

  • 4 ounces red radishes, sliced into thin rounds
  • 1 medium carrot, peeled and shaved into long, thin strips (see note)
  • 1⁄2 small red onion, thinly sliced
  • 1 1⁄2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar, divided
  • 1⁄3 cup white sugar
  • 1⁄4-ounce (7-gram) package roasted seaweed snacks, torn into small pieces (about 1 cup packed)
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons mirin
  • 2 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil
  • 10 ounces spring mix or other delicate greens
  • Kosher salt

INSTRUCTIONS

In a medium heatproof bowl, combine the radishes, carrot and onion. In a small saucepan over medium-high, combine 11⁄2 cups vinegar, the sugar and 3⁄4 cup water. Bring to a rapid boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then pour over the vegetables. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or for up to 1 week.

In a spice grinder, process the seaweed until finely chopped, gently shaking the grinder, about 30 seconds; check under the blade for clumps and break up any. You should have about 2 tablespoons pulverized seaweed. In a large bowl, whisk together the seaweed, soy sauce, mirin, oil and the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar; the dressing will thicken slightly.

Drain the pickles in a fine mesh strainer. Add half of the drained pickles to the bowl with the dressing along with the salad greens. Toss to combine, then taste and season with salt. Transfer to a platter or bowl and top with the remaining drained pickles.


Maple–Browned Butter Pie

Start to finish: 3 hours (45 minutes active) | Makes one 9-inch pie

This dessert is the creation of Briana Holt of Tandem Coffee + Bakery in Portland, Maine. The nutty flavor and flaky, yet sturdy texture of the whole-wheat pastry perfectly complement the browned butteriness and silkiness of the custard filling. We recommend using the darkest maple syrup you can find so the smoky maple notes hold their own amidst the butter, eggs and cream. A sprinkle of flaky sea salt just before serving balances the filling’s sweetness and adds a pleasing crunch that contrasts the smoothness, but this flourish is purely optional. The pie can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to two days; bring to room temperature before serving.

Don’t skip or skimp on the pie weights when prebaking the crust; they’re essential for preventing the dough from shrinking, slipping and bubbling. We highly recommend using metal or ceramic pie weights. Unlike dried beans and rice, two common pie-weight stand- ins, both metal and ceramic conduct heat well, which aids with browning, and their heft holds the dough in place as it bakes. Also, don’t forget to lower the oven temperature to 325°F after placing the prebaked crust on a wire rack.

INGREDIENTS

For the crust:

  • 98 grams (3⁄4 cup) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
  • 70 grams (1⁄2 cup) whole-wheat flour
  • 13 grams (1 tablespoon) white sugar
  • 1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 7 tablespoons salted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces and chilled
  • 6 to 8 tablespoons ice water

For the filling:

  • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, cut into 4 pieces
  • 107 grams (1⁄2 cup) white sugar
  • 111 grams (1⁄3 cup) honey
  • 18 grams (2 tablespoons) fine cornmeal
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk, well beaten
  • 1⁄2 cup maple syrup (see note)
  • 1⁄2 cup heavy cream
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons cider vinegar
  • Maldon sea salt flakes, to serve (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS

To make the crust, in a food processor, combine both flours, the sugar and salt; process until combined, about 5 seconds. Scatter the butter over the flour mixture, then pulse until the pieces are the size of small peas, 10 to 14 pulses. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon ice water, then toss with a silicone spatula, making sure to scrape along the bottom of the bowl until the water has been absorbed. Repeat with the remaining ice water, adding it 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture forms pebbly clumps; you may not need all the water. Using your hands, press the clumps together firmly into a rough ball, then form the ball into a 4-inch disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Heat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the middle position. On a well- floured counter and using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Drape the dough over the rolling pin and transfer to a 9-inch pie plate. Gently ease the dough into the plate by lifting the edges while pressing down into the corners. Trim the edges, leaving a 1⁄2-inch overhang, then tuck the overhang under itself so the dough is flush with the rim of the pan. Using your fingers, crimp and flute the edge of the dough. Refrigerate uncovered until firm, about 30 minutes, or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 8 hours.

Line the chilled dough with a large piece of heavy-duty foil, pressing the foil into the corners and up the sides of the pie plate, then fill evenly with 2 cups pie weights; loosely fold the foil to cover the fluted edge. Bake until the edges of the crust are light golden brown, about 35 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and remove the foil and weights. Reduce the oven to 325°F.

While the crust is baking, make the filling. In a 10-inch skillet over medium-high, melt the butter. Cook, swirling the pan frequently, until the milk solids at the bottom are golden brown and the butter has a nutty aroma, 1 to 3 minutes. Scrape the butter into a medium heatproof bowl and let cool until warm, about 15 minutes.

To the browned butter, whisk in the sugar, honey, cornmeal and kosher salt. Add the eggs and yolk, then whisk slowly and gently until well combined. Add the maple syrup, cream, vanilla and vinegar, then whisk gently until homogenous. Pour the filling into the crust (it’s fine if the crust is still warm).

Bake until the edges of the filling are puffed and the center jiggles when the pie plate is gently shaken, 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer to the wire rack and let stand until the filling is fully cooled and set, 3 to 4 hours. Sprinkle with Maldon salt (if using).

PHOTO CREDIT: CONNIE MILLER OF CB CREATIVES