Episodes

Arts

Cook’s Country: Banana Pudding Pie (Ep 1512)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 19, 2022

Banana Pudding Pie
SERVES 8

For the best results, use either fully yellow or lightly spotted bananas here (avoid bananas that are green on top or all brown). Peel and slice the bananas just before using to help prevent browning. Plan ahead: The pie needs to be refrigerated for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours before it’s topped. Chilling the topped pie for longer than 4 hours may cause the top to deflate. Don’t worry; it will still be delicious.

Arts

Milk Street: Mexico City Tacos (Ep 608)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 19, 2022

Dutch Oven Beef Birria Tacos
Start to finish: 33⁄4 hours (45 minutes active)
Servings: 6 to 8

Birria, from the state of Jalisco on the western coast of Mexico, is a succulent stew
of shredded meat in a thick, intense, chili-rich sauce. It traditionally is made with goat, but these days, beef and lamb are common. Our version is made with meaty boneless beef short ribs and is loosely based on the recipe taught to us by home cook Aidee Gonzalez in Mexico City. Four varieties of dried chilies went into Gonzalez’s birria, but to simplify slightly, we chose three that are easy to source but deliver lots of earthy, fruity depth and complexity. We slow-cook the meat in the oven with a minimal amount of water until fork-tender so the flavor is meaty and concentrated.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Slow-Roasted Salmon with Chives and Lemon (Ep 1413)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 17, 2022

Slow-Roasted Salmon with Chives and Lemon
SERVES 6

You can substitute granulated sugar for the brown sugar, if desired. If a 2 ½ -pound salmon fillet is unavailable, you can use six 6- to 8-ounce skinless salmon fillets instead. In step 1, sprinkle both sides of the fillets evenly with the sugar mixture and arrange them side by side in the baking dish so they are touching. The cooking time remains the same. We prefer farm-raised salmon here; if using wild salmon, reduce the cooking time to 45 to 50 minutes, or until the salmon registers 120 degrees.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Chile Verde Tacos with Turkey

By Stacey Mosteller | November 16, 2022

Chile Verde Tacos with Turkey
Start to finish: 40 minutes
Servings: 4

These tacos are a great way to use leftover turkey, but rotisserie chicken works, too. Canned tomatillos make the prep go quickly. Offer sour cream and pickled sliced jalapeños on the side. Don’t forget to crush and drain the tomatillos in a strainer over a bowl before using. Their packing liquid will make the sauce too thin.

Arts

Milk Street: All-Star Vegetables (Ep 607)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 15, 2022

Indian-Spiced Butternut Squash Soup with Yogurt
Start to finish: 1 hour
Servings: 4

In his book “Bollywood Kitchen,” filmmaker Sri Rao offers a pureed butternut squash
soup with flavors that are bold and vibrant, yet comforting. Our adaptation, like his,
includes fresh ginger and warm spices to complement the natural sweetness of
squash. But because butternut often has a one-note flavor, we include carrots for
earthiness and depth. A spoonful of yogurt and some spiced pumpkin seeds adds color and texture. Don’t bring the soup to a full simmer after adding the yogurt.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Cranberry and Candied Ginger Buckle

By Stacey Mosteller | November 14, 2022

Cranberry and Candied Ginger Buckle
1 hour 10 minutes (30 minutes active, plus cooling)
12 servings

A buckle is a fruit-studded cake with a buttery crumb topping; it’s a great breakfast treat, an excellent midday sweet alongside tea or coffee or a casual, not-too-heavy after-dinner dessert. Our version is loosely based on a recipe in “Rustic Fruit Desserts” by Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson. Instead of making an entirely separate crumb topping, we remove a portion of the flour-sugar-butter mixture that is the base of the cake, then mix in a few additional ingredients to create a mixture that bakes up with just the right crumbly texture. Covered tightly at room temperature, leftovers keep for up to three
days. Don’t forget to thaw the cranberries, if using frozen.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Apple Pie

By Stacey Mosteller | November 11, 2022

Christopher Kimball’s Double-Crust Apple Pie
2 hours (1 hour active, plus cooling)
Makes one 9-inch double crust pie

This pie is “doubled” both inside and out. The tender, flaky double crust envelops a
filling made with a duo of apples. Granny Smiths add tartness and acidity, plus they retain a good amount of texture when cooked. McIntosh apples, on the other hand, are sweet and flavorful and they break down to an applesauce-like texture with cooking. Though this sounds like a fault, the Macs helps thicken the filling, obviating the need to use a lot of starch, which deadens the fruitiness of the apples.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Cajun Rice Dressing (Ep 1511)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 10, 2022

Cajun Rice Dressing
SERVES 8 TO 10

Two cups of uncooked long-grain white rice will yield about 6 cups once cooked. You can find chicken livers in the refrigerated meat section of your supermarket or at your local butcher shop. If you prefer, you can use a food processor to chop the chicken livers; it will take about six pulses to finely chop them. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount of cayenne pepper. Ingredients
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 slices bacon, chopped
2 green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine
2 onions, chopped fine
1 celery rib, chopped fine
12 scallions, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
1 pound ground pork
8 ounces chicken livers, trimmed and chopped fine
1 tablespoon paprika
11/2 teaspoons granulated garlic
1⁄2 teaspoon celery salt
1⁄4–1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 cups chicken broth
6 cups cooked long-grain white rice
Hot sauce

Directions
1.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup (Ep 1412)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 10, 2022

Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup
SERVES 4 TO 6

We were after a comforting, deeply flavored chicken noodle soup that was easy enough to make when you’re feeling under the weather. Browning bone-in chicken pieces before simmering them in store- bought chicken broth creates an intensely chicken-y soup base. A standard mix of onion, celery, and carrot simmered alongside the chicken enhanced rather than distracted from the chicken broth’s richness. And though egg noodles are common in homemade versions, tasters preferred spaghetti broken into bite-size pieces, which gave a nostalgic nod to canned versions but had loads more flavor. Ingredients

1 ½ pounds bone-in chicken breasts and/or thighs, trimmed

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

8 cups chicken broth

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 celery rib, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

5 ounces spaghetti, broken into 1-inch pieces (1½ cups)

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Directions
1.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Meat Free Gravy

By Stacey Mosteller | November 9, 2022

Rich and Savory Meat-Free Gravy
11⁄4 hours
21⁄2 cups

This all-purpose vegetarian gravy is so rich and full-flavored, the carnivores at the table likely will not suspect it’s meat-free. Pour it over mashed potatoes or roasted vegetables or even serve it alongside a roasted chicken or turkey. We build deep savoriness into it by browning the ingredients and deglazing the flavorful drippings. Plus, we use both miso and tomato paste to lend umami notes; soy sauce also adds depth of flavor and color. If you have dried shiitake mushrooms in your pantry, simmering one or two (broken into pieces) into the mix adds an extra layer of meaty flavor, but the gravy is delicious without them.

Arts

Milk Street: Flavors of Ethiopia (Ep 523)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 8, 2022

Ethiopian Stewed Collard Greens (Gomen Wat)
Start to finish: 1 hour (20 minutes active)
Servings: 4

Gomen wat translates as “collard greens stew.” In Ethiopia, we tasted multiple versions of the hardy greens braised with beef (in which case, the dish is called gomen besiga), but we prefer the lighter, brighter, more flavorful version in which the greens are cooked without meat. Ethiopian butter, made from fermented milk, infuses dishes to which it’s added—including the gomen wat we sampled—with a unique depth of flavor and appealing funkiness, not unlike a fragrant cheese. Indian ghee, which is easier to find, is a
reasonably good substitute. Look for ghee in either the refrigerator section near the butter or in the grocery aisle near the coconut oil. If you cannot find it, use salted butter in its place but also add 1 teaspoon white miso along with the broth to subtly boost flavor.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Brown Ale Turkey and Gravy

By Stacey Mosteller | November 7, 2022

Brown Ale Turkey and Gravy
31⁄2 hours (30 min active)
10 servings

How to roast the thanksgiving turkey has turned into an annual ordeal. The debate over brining alone is enough to make one consider going vegetarian. And of course there’s the finicky business of how to get the thigh and breast meat to cook to perfect—yet different—temperatures simultaneously. We knew we had been overthinking this for far too long. So we decided to skip the culinary gymnastics and instead perfected a tried-and-true method: basting.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Transylvanian Goulash (Ep 1510)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 5, 2022

Transylvanian Goulash
SERVES 6 TO 8

Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Since paprika is vital to the success of this recipe, it is best to use a fresh bottle. Do not substitute hot or smoked Spanish paprika for the sweet paprika called for here. Eden Organic jarred sauerkraut is the test kitchen’s favorite sauerkraut. Rinsing the sauerkraut reduces its sharp flavor and bite; if you prefer sharper sauerkraut flavor, omit this step.

Arts

Milk Street: New Wave Pizzas (Ep 606)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 5, 2022

Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza with Tomatoes and Mozzarella
Start to finish: 6 hours (35 minutes active)
Servings: 4 to 6

The crust for this pizza borrows from the Milk Street recipe for a light, open-crumbed
focaccia, our re-creation of the focaccia we encountered in Bari, Italy. The pizza dough is
unusual in a couple ways: It uses so much water that it verges on a batter and it rises for
at least four hours on the counter (be sure to place the bowl in a warm spot). After rising,
the dough is poured out onto a greased 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet (also known
as a half sheet pan) to rest for 20 minutes before being nudged with oiled fingers to the
edges of the pan. Instead of making a single large pizza, you could make two 12-inch pies
using low-lipped, disk-shaped pizza pans, like the ones used in American-style pizzerias; see the directions below. Don’t forget to mist the baking sheet with cooking spray.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Easy-Bake Herbed Stuffing

By Stacey Mosteller | November 4, 2022

Easy-Bake Herbed Stuffing
21⁄4 hours (30 minutes active)
8 servings

Let’s face it, stuffing is basically a flavorful sponge to soak up gravy and any stray melting butter that escapes a vegetable. But mincing and sautéing the aromatics that help turn bland bread tasty is a chore. We speed things up – and maximize flavor – by giving butter, fresh herbs and raw shallots a whiz in the food processor, then using the resulting paste to season bread cubes while they toast in the oven. We found that any sturdy, high-quality sliced sandwich bread from the grocer worked well here. As the bread bakes, the raw bite of the shallots cooks off, leaving behind a mellow tang.

Arts

Cook’s Country: French Onion Soup (Ep 1411)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 3, 2022

French Onion Soup
SERVES 4 TO 6

Be patient when caramelizing the onions; the entire process takes 55 to 70 minutes. If you don’t have oven safe soup crocks, form six individual piles of croutons on a baking sheet, cover them with the cheese, and broil them on the middle oven rack until the cheese is melted, 1 to 3 minutes. Then use a spatula to transfer the crouton portions to the individual filled soup bowls. Ingredients
4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 pounds onions, halved and sliced thin 1 ¾ teaspoons table salt, divided

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup dry red wine

8 cups beef broth

4 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

¾ teaspoon pepper, divided

6 ounces baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (2 cups)

1 ½ ounces Parmesan cheese, shredded (½ cup)

Directions
1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Spiced Sweet Potato Tian

By Stacey Mosteller | November 2, 2022

Spiced Sweet Potato Tian
1 hour 20 minutes (20 minutes active), plus cooling
4 to 6 servings

When you prepare sweet potatoes like this, you get the best of both worlds: tender, buttery rounds of sweet potato with crisped, browned edges. To balance the natural sweetness of the potatoes, we toss the slices with vinegar, spices and red pepper flakes, then tuck sliced shallot and sage or rosemary leaves in between the layers. Sweet potatoes can vary greatly in size. Try to choose medium-sized ones of about the same diameter so the slices fit neatly in the pie plate. The quickest way to slice the potatoes is with a mandoline—aim for slices about 1⁄8-inch thick.

Arts

Milk Street: Souvlaki and Flatbread (Ep 522)

By Stacey Mosteller | November 1, 2022

Pork Souvlaki with Tzatziki and Tomato-Onion Salad
Start to finish: 1 hour
Servings: 6 to 8

In her book “Aegean,” Crete-born London chef Marianna Leivaditaki reveals that after a
recent visit to Turkey, she began incorporating fenugreek in her cooking, especially on grilled pork of all sorts. We, too, think that fenugreek, with its notes of mustard, fennel
and maple, brings intriguing and unique flavor to any dish to which it’s added (fenugreek is a key ingredient in curry powder). In adapting Leivaditaki’s recipe for an herb and spice- rubbed pork tenderloin, we sear the seasoned meat on the stovetop and finish it in a hot oven before thinly slicing it for serving (you will need an oven-safe 12-inch skillet for this recipe). To the seasoning mix, we add a little smoked paprika to evoke the flavors of an outdoor grill. “Souvlaki” often refers to meat cooked on skewers, but Leivaditaki explains that in Crete, souvlaki is meat wrapped in pita.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Roasted Carrots with Balsamic Raisins and Pine Nuts

By Stacey Mosteller | October 31, 2022

Roasted Carrots with Balsamic Raisins and Pine Nuts
40 Minutes
8 Servings

In this simple side dish, carrots are roasted until caramelized, then combined with toasted pine nuts and raisins that have been plumped in white balsamic vinegar. If you can find rainbow carrots, they make for a colorful presentation. Sliced or slivered almonds are good stand-ins for the pine nuts. To help minimize last-minute prep, peel, slice and refrigerate the carrots in a zip-close bag for up to two days before cooking. The pine nuts can be toasted, cooled and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to two days, as well.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Chocolate Fudge (Ep 1509)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 30, 2022

Chocolate Fudge
MAKES ABOUT 3 POUNDS

You will need a digital or candy thermometer for this recipe. We developed this recipe using Kraft Jet-Puffed Marshmallows. With this brand, 21 marshmallows yield 5 ounces. Be sure to use evaporated milk here, not sweetened condensed milk. We developed this recipe using Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate
Premium Baking Bar.

Arts

Milk Street: Quick Desserts (Ep 605)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 30, 2022

Chocolate Olive Oil Cake
Start to finish: 11⁄4 hours (35 minutes active), plus cooling
Servings: 10 to 12

This rustic chocolate cake is made with two surprising ingredients: olive oil and lemon
juice. Extra-virgin olive oil lends fruity, peppery flavor notes. For a less prominent
flavor, use light olive oil (“light” indicates the oil is refined, not lower in fat). You could even use a combination of oils—for example, a robust extra-virgin olive oil tempered with a little neutral oil. The lemon juice brings a brightness that balances the richness of the
oil and chocolate, and its acidity reacts with the baking soda to provide lift.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Belgian Mashed Potatoes with Winter Vegetables

By Stacey Mosteller | October 28, 2022

Belgian Mashed Potatoes with Winter Vegetables (Stoemp)
1 Hour
8 Servings

Stoemp (pronounced STOOMP) is a hearty Belgian dish of mashed potatoes mixed with finely cut winter vegetables. Our version includes leeks, carrots and cabbage, with a good dose of bay and garlic for fragrance and flavor. A tablespoon of white balsamic vinegar brightens the dish while adding a touch of sweetness, but white wine vinegar worked, too. Make sure to rinse the leeks well; their many layers trap dirt and sand. It’s best to rinse them after slicing so you can get between the layers.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Bacon-Wrapped Pork Roast with Peach Sauce (Ep 1410)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 27, 2022

Bacon-Wrapped Pork Roast with Peach Sauce
SERVES 8

Wrapping a pork loin roast in bacon not only adds big, smoky flavor to the mild meat, but it also encases the roast in a layer of protective fat that bastes the pork as it renders. To add extra flavor and juiciness, we first rub the pork with a mixture of salt and sugar and let it chill for at least an hour. We found that achieving a rosy, moist roast with a beautifully browned bacon crust required a two-pronged cooking approach: We roast the pork in a low 250-degree oven until it reaches 90 degrees. Then, we crank the oven to 475 degrees to brown the bacon and finish cooking the roast. Brushing the bacon with a quick-cooking peach sauce gives it a rich, lacquered appearance.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Green Beans with Browned Butter and Almonds

By Stacey Mosteller | October 26, 2022

Green Beans with Browned Butter and Almonds
25 Minutes
4 Servings

This easy one-pot side was inspired by classic green bean almondine. First, the beans simmer in a small amount of water until tender-crisp. then, the liquid is cooked off, leaving them lightly glazed with butter. We especially like the texture of slivered almonds in this dish, but just about any type of nut pairs well with the beans. Red pepper adds a touch of piquancy and lemon zest and juice brightens up the flavors.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Neorm Sach Moan (Ep 1508)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 26, 2022

Neorm Sach Moan
SERVES 4

This recipe is adapted from a dish by Nite Yun, owner and chef of Nyum Bai, a Cambodian restaurant in Oakland, California. You can substitute Italian basil for Thai basil. If you can’t find Persian cucumber, use 1 cup of thinly sliced English cucumber. A mandoline makes quick work of evenly shredding the cabbage
and slicing the radishes and cucumber. Ingredients
1 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breast, trimmed
1/4 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for poaching chicken
6 tablespoons fish sauce
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1 Thai chile, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
4 cups shredded green cabbage
2 ounces (2 cups) baby mizuna or baby arugula, chopped coarse
1 cup shredded red cabbage
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin
1 Persian cucumber, halved crosswise and sliced thin lengthwise
4 radishes, trimmed and sliced thin
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus 2 tablespoons leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh Thai basil
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1/4 cup salted dry-roasted peanuts, chopped

Directions
1.

Arts

Milk Street: Tuesday Night Mediterranean (Ep 521)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 25, 2022

Provençal Braised Chicken
Start to finish: 45 minutes
Servings: 4

Think of this dish as bouillabaisse made with chicken instead of seafood. Fresh fennel,
garlic, white wine, orange zest and saffron give the braise rich, heady perfume and an
unmistakably Mediterranean flavor. Any unoaked dry white wine works well here,
but ideally look for one produced in southern France, such as white Côtes du Rhône or marsanne. We use strips of orange zest instead of grated zest to lend citrusy notes to the braise. A sharp Y-style vegetable peeler is the best tool for peeling away zest strips, but try to remove only the colored peel, not the bitter white pith just underneath.

Arts

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Soy-Glazed Braised Brussels Sprouts

By Stacey Mosteller | October 24, 2022

Soy-Glazed Braised Brussels Sprouts
35 Minutes
4 Servings

Tare (pronounced tah-reh) is a Japanese seasoning liquid typically made with a soy sauce base, often enhanced by mirin, sake, ginger and garlic. Here, we use those ingredients with Brussels sprouts. We first brown the halved sprouts in butter to develop rich, nutty flavor notes, braise them until tender, then allow the moisture to cook off, leaving the sprouts coated with a salty-sweet glaze. Don’t stir the sprouts too often in the first step. The key is to let them brown and char slightly in order to produce a rich, complex sauce.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Chicken Paprikash (Ep 1409)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 20, 2022

Chicken Paprikash
SERVES 4 TO 6

To allow vibrant paprika to shine in this comforting Hungarian chicken stew, we added it with the chicken broth (blooming it in hot oil burned it and turned it bitter almost instantly). We used skinless chicken thighs for tender meat without the grease and added sweetness to the stew with softened bell pepper and onion. A bit of cayenne added warmth and enhanced the paprika’s earthy flavor. Finishing the dish with a mixture of sour cream and flour thickened and enriched the rust-hued stew. Ingredients

¼         cup extra-virgin olive oil

1       large onion, halved and sliced thin

1       red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin

1       (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

5        garlic cloves, chopped fine

2        teaspoons table salt, divided

8      (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed, trimmed

¾   teaspoon pepper

2½  cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons paprika, plus extra for serving

¼    teaspoon cayenne pepper

1⁄₃     cup sour cream, plus extra for serving

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2    tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Directions

1.

Arts

Milk Street: The Art of Japanese Cooking (Ep 520)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 18, 2022

Japanese-Style Chicken and Vegetable Curry
Start to finish: 1 hour
Servings: 4

Japanese curry is wildly popular, including outside Japan. Some restaurants specialize in
the dish, offering dozens of iterations, from basic beef curry to fried cutlets and croquettes with curry, hamburger curry, even curried omelets. At home, Japanese curry typically is made using commercially produced “bricks,” which are seasonings mixed with a roux and packaged much like bars of chocolate. Added near the end of cooking, a curry brick, broken into pieces, melts into the mix, seasoning the dish as well as thickening it. Sonoko Sakai, a Los Angeles-based cooking instructor and author of “Japanese Home Cooking,” blends her own curry powder, which she uses to create all-natural, additive-free homemade curry bricks.

Milk Street: The Real Fettuccine Alfredo (Ep 603)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 15, 2022

Fettuccine Alfredo
Start to finish: 30 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6

Made the Italian way, fettuccine Alfredo bears little resemblance to the unctuous, cream-based pasta dish that’s popular in the U.S. We scoured Italy for the best versions, and our
favorite was prepared by home cook Francesca Guccione in Castelnuovo di Porto, just outside Rome. Rich, luxurious and elegant but neither heavy nor cloying, Guccione’s fettuccine Alfredo, like other Roman recipes for the dish, consists of only fresh pasta, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, butter and salt. The secret lies in using high-
quality ingredients and combining them in just the right way, and in just the right
volumes. We adapted her winning formula but incorporated a technique we saw employed at a couple restaurants of putting softened butter (rather than melted) into the bowl in which the hot pasta will be tossed. Of utmost importance is the cheese. Purchase a hefty chunk of true Parmigiano Reggiano—not the pre-shredded stuff—trim off the rind (save it for simmering into soups and stews), cut 6 ounces into rough 1⁄2-inch pieces and whir them in a food processor until very finely ground.

Arts

Milk Street: Greek Mezze (Ep 602)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 8, 2022

Greek Meatballs with Tomato Sauce (Soutzoukakia)
Start to finish: 1 hour 20 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6

Known as soutzoukakia, these cigar-shaped meatballs are seasoned with cumin and
garlic, then simmered in tomato sauce. The dish has origins in Smyrna, a former Greek
settlement and now the Turkish city of Izmir on the Aegean coast. Our recipe is based on
the soutzoukakia we learned from Alexandra Manousakis and Afshin Molavi of Manousakis Winery on the Greek island of Crete. Made with a combination of ground lamb and beef, the meatballs have a deep, rich flavor perfectly matched by the tangy-sweet tomato sauce. If you prefer, you can use 1 pound of either type of meat.

Arts

Cook’s Country: St. Paul Sandwich (Ep 1407)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 6, 2022

St. Paul Sandwich
SERVES 4

Despite its name, the St. Paul sandwich originated in St. Louis, where we watched Rudy Lieu of Fortune Express crank out dozens of the egg foo yong sandwiches to fill lunch orders. While Lieu deep-fried his egg foo yong in an oil-filled wok for a fluffy, frizzled, sandwich-size patty, we opted to cook ours in ½ cup of oil in a non- stick skillet.

Arts

Milk Street: Cooking of Ukraine (Ep 518)

By Stacey Mosteller | October 4, 2022

Borsch with Duck and Prunes
Start to finish: 23⁄4 hours
Servings: 4 to 6

In “Summer Kitchens,” Olia Hercules writes about the history of borsch, its importance in Ukranian cuisine, seasonal and regional influences on the soup, and her own family’s recipes. For our adaptation of her resplendent borsch with duck and smoked pears, we opt to use prunes, a substitution she suggests. You also can replace the duck with a small rack of pork baby back ribs, if you’re so inclined. The borsch is made by simmering duck legs (or pork ribs) with aromatics to make a flavorful broth; the meat then is shredded off the bones and added to the soup at the end. As the broth simmers, aromatics for the borsch are sautéed in a separate pot so they are ready to receive the broth, which is strained directly into aromatics.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Italian Meatloaf (Ep 1406)

By Stacey Mosteller | September 29, 2022

Italian Meatloaf
SERVES 6 TO 8

This Italian Meatloaf is essentially an excellent recipe for meatballs and marinara without any of the hands-on fuss. We started with an intensely flavorful meatball mix—ground beef, Italian sausage, Parmesan cheese, garlic, and oregano—but instead of rolling dozens of meatballs, we just shaped one meatloaf. Mixing in a paste of crushed saltines, eggs, and milk ensured that the meatloaf held its shape and baked up tender and moist. We whipped together a bright, garlicky 5-minute tomato sauce, poured it over the meatloaf in a baking dish, and baked the two together, elevating and enriching both meatloaf and sauce in the process. For a next-level finishing touch, we topped the meatloaf with creamy melted fontina and a sprinkling of fresh basil.

Arts

Milk Street: Schnitzel and Mashed! (Ep 517)

By Stacey Mosteller | September 27, 2022

German Pork Schnitzel
Start to finish: 40 minutes
Servings: 4

During a visit to Berlin, we learned that the coating for authentic German pork Schnitzel, or Schweineschnitzel, is dry breadcrumbs made from kaiser rolls, which are extremely fine-textured. For ease, we developed this recipe using store-bought plain dry breadcrumbs, but if you’d like to make kaiser crumbs, which are a touch sweeter, wheatier and fresher tasting than prepared breadcrumbs, see the instructions below. Indian ghee (clarified butter) is a counterintuitive ingredient for Schnitzel, but adding just a small amount to the frying oil adds richer, fuller flavor; look for ghee in the refrigerator case near the butter or in the grocery aisle alongside the coconut oil. If you cannot find it, the Schnitzel still is tasty without. To fry the cutlets, we use a large Dutch oven instead of a skillet; the pot’s high walls safely contain the hot oil and reduce splatter on the stovetop.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Blueberry Biscuits (Ep 1505)

By Stacey Mosteller | September 24, 2022

Blueberry Biscuits
SERVES 9 (MAKES 9 BISCUITS)

We prefer the flavor of fresh blueberries here, but you can also use 71⁄2 ounces (11⁄2 cups) of frozen blueberries that have been thawed, drained, and then patted dry with paper towels. If you have leftover buttermilk, it can be frozen in ice cube trays, transferred to zipper-lock freezer bags, and frozen for up to a month. Upon thawing, the whey and the milk solids will separate; simply whisk the buttermilk back together before using it. Ingredients

BISCUITS
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, plus 10
tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch
pieces and chilled
3 cups (15 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (31⁄2 ounces) sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1¼ teaspoons table salt
7 1/2 ounces (11⁄2 cups) blueberries
12/3 cups buttermilk, chilled

HONEY BUTTER
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon honey
Pinch table salt

Directions
1. FOR THE BISCUITS: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees.

Arts

Cook’s Country: Okra and Shrimp Stew (Ep 1503)

By Stacey Mosteller | September 10, 2022

Okra and Shrimp Stew
SERVES 8 TO 10

If you can find medium shrimp (41 to 50 per pound), use those and leave them whole. Look for meaty ham hocks. If you buy the test kitchen’s preferred brand of andouille sausage, Jacob’s World Famous Andouille, which tends to be thicker than other products, halve it lengthwise before slicing it crosswise. Ingredients
4 quarts water
1–11⁄4 pounds smoked ham hocks
1 onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
12 ounces andouille sausage, sliced 1⁄4 inch thick
1 pound frozen or fresh okra (stemmed and cut
crosswise 1⁄2 inch thick for fresh)
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 ½ cups frozen baby lima (aka butter) beans
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons table salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 pound large shrimp (26 to 30 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, cut into thirds
Cooked white rice

Directions

1. Combine water, ham hocks, onion, and bay leaf in large Dutch oven and bring to boil over high heat.

Arts

Milk Street: The New NY Cheesecake! (Ep 514)

By Stacey Mosteller | September 10, 2022

Chèvre Cheesecake with Black Pepper-Graham Crust
Start to finish: 21⁄2 hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling + refrigerating
Servings: 12 to 16

Angie Mar, chef/owner of Beatrice Inn in New York City, may be best known for her
artistry with all things meat, but we’re smitten with her chèvre cheesecake, the recipe for which is found in her book “Butcher + Beast.” Made with equal parts chèvre (fresh goat cheese) and cream cheese plus a generous measure of crème fraîche, the cake has the perfect amount of savoriness and tanginess—and a surprisingly light texture despite its richness. In addition to scaling Mar’s recipe to fit into a standard 9-inch springform, we mixed lemon zest into the filling to lift the flavor and add citrusy notes that play off the black pepper in the crust. The best way to gauge doneness of the cake is with an instant thermometer inserted through the side (in the area where the filling has risen above the pan), with the probe angled slightly down and to the center; 145°F to 150°F is the finished temperature. To cut clean slices, warm the knife blade by dipping it into a pitcher of hot water; wipe the blade dry before and after each cut and rewarm it as needed. Covered tightly with foil and refrigerated, the cheesecake keeps well for up to four days, though the crust softens over time.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Yeasted Doughnuts (Ep 2220)

By Stacey Mosteller | July 19, 2022

Yeasted Doughnuts

SERVES 12 DOUGHNUTS

TIME 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 10 HOURS RESTING

WHY THIS WORKS: Our yeasted doughnuts are moist but light with a tender chew and restrained sweetness, thanks to a careful balance of fat, sugar, and moisture in the dough. We chilled the dough overnight—a step called cold fermentation—so that it was faster to make the doughnuts in the morning. The dough also developed more complex flavor and was easier to handle when cold. Shutting the cut doughnuts in the oven with a loaf pan of boiling water—a makeshift baker’s proof box—encouraged them to rise quickly; we then briefly fried them on both sides in moderately hot oil until they turned golden brown. We dipped them in a thin, fluid confectioners’ sugar–based glaze, which set into a sheer, matte shell.

Arts

Milk Street: Everyday Venice (Ep 510)

By Stacey Mosteller | July 16, 2022

Venetian Rice and Peas (Risi e Bisi)
Start to finish: 11⁄4 hours
Servings: 4 to 6

Rice and peas, or risi e bisi, is a classic Venetian dish, traditionally eaten on April 25,
St. Mark’s Day. Much like risotto, the rice is rich and creamy because of the starchiness of
the grains and how they are cooked. But risi e bisi typically is a bit soupier. Sweet peas stud the dish, and in the version taught to us by Michela Tasca, owner of Ca’ de Memi farm and bed and breakfast in Piombino Dese outside of Venice, the al dente grains were
bathed in beautiful pale green broth, a result of peas pureed into the cooking liquid.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Sichuan Noodles with Chili Sauce and Pork (Ep 2219)

By Stacey Mosteller | July 14, 2022

Dan Dan Mian (Sichuan Noodles with Chili Sauce and Pork)

SERVES 4

TIME 1 ¼ HOURS

If you can’t find Sichuan chili powder, substitute Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru). Sichuan peppercorns provide a tingly, numbing sensation that’s important to this dish; find them in the spice aisle at Asian markets. We prefer the chewy texture of fresh, eggless Chinese wheat noodles here. If they aren’t available, substitute fresh lo mein or ramen noodles or 8 ounces of dried lo mein noodles. Ya cai, Sichuan preserved mustard greens, gives these noodles a savory and pungent boost; you can buy it online or at an Asian market.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Egg, Kimchi, and Avocado Sandwiches (Ep 2215)

By Stacey Mosteller | June 30, 2022

Egg, Kimchi, and Avocado Sandwiches

SERVES 4

TIME 1 ¼ HOURS

This recipe requires an 8-inch square metal baking pan. Avoid using a ceramic or glass dish, which will increase the cooking time and could cause the eggs to overcook during cooling. We like the flavor and texture of kaiser rolls for these sandwiches, but you can substitute 4- inch bulkie rolls, English muffins, or burger buns, if desired. If you omit the kimchi from your sandwiches, you may want to season the eggs with additional salt after baking. For maximum efficiency, gather and prepare the sandwich fillings while the eggs cook, and toast the rolls while the eggs cool.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread) (Ep 2214)

By Stacey Mosteller | June 28, 2022

Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread)

SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS 17 HOURS RESTING

You’ll need a baking peel for this recipe; if you don’t have one, use an over- turned rimmed baking sheet instead. King Arthur All-Purpose Flour gives these flatbreads the perfect balance of crispness and tenderness, but if it’s unavailable, substitute any major brand of all-purpose flour. We strongly recommend weighing the flour and the water. Jarred biber salçası (Turkish red pepper paste) can be found in Middle Eastern grocery stores or online. Be sure to use the mild variety; if it’s unavailable, increase the tomato paste in the topping to 2 tablespoons and increase the paprika to 4 teaspoons.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Goan Pork Vindaloo (Ep 2212)

By Stacey Mosteller | June 21, 2022

Goan Pork Vindalooo
SERVES 8
TIME 2 ½ HOURS

WHY THIS WORKS: The word “vindaloo” has evolved to indicate a searingly hot curry because of its adoption into British cuisine, but the original Goan dish is a brightly flavored but relatively mild pork braise made with dried Kashmiri chiles and plenty of spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. Vindaloo should have a pronounced vinegary tang, but we found that adding the vinegar at the beginning made the meat chalky. We withheld it until half- way through cooking so that we could use less but still enjoy the characteristic acidity. Moving the cooking from the stovetop to the oven made this dish hands-off and foolproof. Ingredients

¾   cup water

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and sliced crosswise ⅛ inch thick

6    garlic cloves

3     tablespoons Kashmiri chile powder

1      tablespoon paprika

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons table salt

1     teaspoon pepper

¼ – ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

½    teaspoon ground cinnamon

½     teaspoon ground cardamom

¼    teaspoon ground cloves

¼     teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 (3-3½ pound) boneless pork butt roast, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

1     tablespoon vegetable oil

1      large onion, chopped fine

⅓    cup coconut vinegar

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Kashmiri chile powder should have a brilliant red hue, a fruity flavor, and a slightly tannic edge, but very little heat.

Arts

Milk Street Vegetarian (Ep 506)

By Stacey Mosteller | June 18, 2022

Cauliflower Steaks with Pickled Peppers, Capers and Parmesan
Start to finish: 45 minutes
Servings: 4

To make a satisfying vegetarian main, we cut thick cauliflower “steaks” from the center section of the whole head; you’ll get two steaks per head. The ends that are left over
tend to fall apart because they’re detached from the core, but don’t discard them—use
them to make cauliflower rice, roast them separately or make them into soup. The
savory-sweet topping for these cauliflower steaks riffs on a recipe in “Six Seasons” by Joshua McFadden. Don’t forget to pat dry the pickled peppers and capers. Removing excess moisture will help the topping brown better in the oven.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Pasta with Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce and Fried Caper Crumbs (Ep 2208)

By Stacey Mosteller | June 9, 2022

Pasta with Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce and Fried Caper Crumbs

SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME 50 MINUTES

Be sure to use cherry tomatoes; grape tomatoes won’t break down as much and will produce a drier sauce. Our topping contributes crunch and depth, but you can substitute 1 cup (2 ounces) of grated Parmesan cheese, if desired. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount of red pepper flakes. Ingredients

TOPPING

2    tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼    cup capers, rinsed and patted dry

1     anchovy fillet, rinsed, patted dry & minced

½    cup panko breads crumbs

⅛    teaspoon table salt

⅛    teaspoon pepper

¼    cup minced fresh parsley

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

PASTA

¼  cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced thin

2  anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry

2  pounds cherry tomatoes

1 ½    teaspoons table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼    teaspoon sugar

⅛ – ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

12 ounces penne rigate, orecchiette, campanelle, or other short pasta

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces and chilled

1    cup fresh basil leaves, torn if large

1. FOR THE TOPPING: Heat oil in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until shim- mering. Add capers and anchovy and cook, stirring frequently, until capers have darkened and shrunk, 3 to 4 minutes.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Challah (Ep 2206)

By Stacey Mosteller | June 2, 2022

Challah

MAKES 1 LOAF

TIME 1 3⁄4 HOURS, PLUS 7 HOURS RESTING AND COOLING

We strongly recommend weighing the flour for this recipe. This dough will be firmer and drier than most bread doughs, which makes it easy to braid. Some friction is necessary for rolling and braiding the ropes, so resist the urge to dust your counter with flour. If your counter is too narrow to stretch the ropes, slightly bend the pieces at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. Bake this loaf on two nested baking sheets to keep the bottom of the loaf from getting too dark.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Kimchi Fried Rice (Ep 2205)

By Stacey Mosteller | May 31, 2022

Kimchi Bokkeumbap (Kimchi Fried Rice)

SERVES SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME 45 MINUTES

WHY THIS WORKS: Iconic, quick-cooking Korean comfort food’, kimchi bok-keumbap is typically made with leftover cooked short-grain rice and well-fermented kimchi, but from there seasonings and additions to bulk it up vary widely from cook to cook. We started by stir-frying some aromatics (chopped onion and sliced scallions) with chopped ham—a popular addition that we liked for its smoky flavor and pleasantly springy texture. Then we added lots of chopped cabbage kimchi along with some of its savory, punchy juice and a little water and seasoned it with soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, and gochujang to add savoriness, rich nuttiness, and a little more heat. We simmered the cabbage leaves so that they softened a bit; stirred in the rice and cooked the mixture until the liquid had been absorbed; and topped the rice with small strips of gim, sesame seeds, and scallion greens. Ingredients

1 (8-inch square) sheet gim

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

2    (1⁄4-inch-thick) slices deli ham, cut into 1⁄4-inch pieces (about 4 ounces)

1     large onion, chopped

6 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin on bias

1 ¼    cups cabbage kimchi, drained with 1⁄4 cup juice reserved, cut into 1⁄4-inch strips

¼    cup water

4    teaspoons soy sauce

4  teaspoons gochujang paste

½    teaspoon pepper

3 cups cooked short-grain white rice

4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1      tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: This recipe works best with day-old rice; alter- natively, cook your rice 2 hours ahead, spread it on a rimmed baking sheet, and let it cool completely before chilling it for 30 minutes.

Arts

America’s Test Kitchen: Popovers (Ep 2204)

By Stacey Mosteller | May 26, 2022

Popovers

SERVES MAKES 6 POPOVERS

TIME 1½ HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR STANDING

WHY THIS WORKS: Greasing the pans with shortening ensures the best release, but vegetable oil spray may be substituted; do not use butter. To gauge the popovers’ progress without opening the oven door, use the oven light during baking. Bread flour makes for the highest and sturdiest popovers, but an equal amount of all-purpose flour may be substituted. Ingredients

3 large eggs

2 cups low-fat milk, heated to 110 degrees

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

2 cups bread flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Unlike most popover batters, this one is smooth, not lumpy. High heat is crucial to the speedy, high rise of the popovers.

Arts

Milk Street Portuguese Favorites (Ep 504)

By Stacey Mosteller | May 21, 2022

Portuguese Sponge Cake (Pão de Ló)
Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes active), plus cooling
Servings: 8 to 10

Outside Lisbon, home cook Lourdes Varelia baked for us a classic Portuguese sponge cake called pão de ló. Its outward appearance was, to us, unusual—deeply browned, wrinkly and sunken, and the dessert was brought to the table in the parchment in which it was baked. And another surprise was in store: slicing revealed a layer of gooey, barely baked batter between the upper crust and the airy, golden-hued crumb. Sweet, eggy and tender, the unadorned cake was simple yet supremely satisfying. When attempting to re-create pão de ló at Milk Street, we turned to a recipe from “My Lisbon” by Nuno Mendes, who, in an uncommon twist, adds olive oil, giving the cake subtle fruity notes along with a little more richness.