Cook’s Country: Banana Pudding Pie (Ep 1512)

Banana Pudding Pie
SERVES 8

For the best results, use either fully yellow or lightly spotted bananas here (avoid bananas that are green on top or all brown). Peel and slice the bananas just before using to help prevent browning. Plan ahead: The pie needs to be refrigerated for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours before it’s topped. Chilling the topped pie for longer than 4 hours may cause the top to deflate. Don’t worry; it will still be delicious.

Milk Street: Mexico City Tacos (Ep 608)

Dutch Oven Beef Birria Tacos
Start to finish: 33⁄4 hours (45 minutes active)
Servings: 6 to 8

Birria, from the state of Jalisco on the western coast of Mexico, is a succulent stew
of shredded meat in a thick, intense, chili-rich sauce. It traditionally is made with goat, but these days, beef and lamb are common. Our version is made with meaty boneless beef short ribs and is loosely based on the recipe taught to us by home cook Aidee Gonzalez in Mexico City. Four varieties of dried chilies went into Gonzalez’s birria, but to simplify slightly, we chose three that are easy to source but deliver lots of earthy, fruity depth and complexity. We slow-cook the meat in the oven with a minimal amount of water until fork-tender so the flavor is meaty and concentrated.

Cook’s Country: Slow-Roasted Salmon with Chives and Lemon (Ep 1413)

Slow-Roasted Salmon with Chives and Lemon
SERVES 6

You can substitute granulated sugar for the brown sugar, if desired. If a 2 ½ -pound salmon fillet is unavailable, you can use six 6- to 8-ounce skinless salmon fillets instead. In step 1, sprinkle both sides of the fillets evenly with the sugar mixture and arrange them side by side in the baking dish so they are touching. The cooking time remains the same. We prefer farm-raised salmon here; if using wild salmon, reduce the cooking time to 45 to 50 minutes, or until the salmon registers 120 degrees.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Chile Verde Tacos with Turkey

Chile Verde Tacos with Turkey
Start to finish: 40 minutes
Servings: 4

These tacos are a great way to use leftover turkey, but rotisserie chicken works, too. Canned tomatillos make the prep go quickly. Offer sour cream and pickled sliced jalapeños on the side. Don’t forget to crush and drain the tomatillos in a strainer over a bowl before using. Their packing liquid will make the sauce too thin.

Milk Street: All-Star Vegetables (Ep 607)

Indian-Spiced Butternut Squash Soup with Yogurt
Start to finish: 1 hour
Servings: 4

In his book “Bollywood Kitchen,” filmmaker Sri Rao offers a pureed butternut squash
soup with flavors that are bold and vibrant, yet comforting. Our adaptation, like his,
includes fresh ginger and warm spices to complement the natural sweetness of
squash. But because butternut often has a one-note flavor, we include carrots for
earthiness and depth. A spoonful of yogurt and some spiced pumpkin seeds adds color and texture. Don’t bring the soup to a full simmer after adding the yogurt.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Cranberry and Candied Ginger Buckle

Cranberry and Candied Ginger Buckle
1 hour 10 minutes (30 minutes active, plus cooling)
12 servings

A buckle is a fruit-studded cake with a buttery crumb topping; it’s a great breakfast treat, an excellent midday sweet alongside tea or coffee or a casual, not-too-heavy after-dinner dessert. Our version is loosely based on a recipe in “Rustic Fruit Desserts” by Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson. Instead of making an entirely separate crumb topping, we remove a portion of the flour-sugar-butter mixture that is the base of the cake, then mix in a few additional ingredients to create a mixture that bakes up with just the right crumbly texture. Covered tightly at room temperature, leftovers keep for up to three
days. Don’t forget to thaw the cranberries, if using frozen.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Apple Pie

Christopher Kimball’s Double-Crust Apple Pie
2 hours (1 hour active, plus cooling)
Makes one 9-inch double crust pie

This pie is “doubled” both inside and out. The tender, flaky double crust envelops a
filling made with a duo of apples. Granny Smiths add tartness and acidity, plus they retain a good amount of texture when cooked. McIntosh apples, on the other hand, are sweet and flavorful and they break down to an applesauce-like texture with cooking. Though this sounds like a fault, the Macs helps thicken the filling, obviating the need to use a lot of starch, which deadens the fruitiness of the apples.

Cook’s Country: Cajun Rice Dressing (Ep 1511)

Cajun Rice Dressing
SERVES 8 TO 10

Two cups of uncooked long-grain white rice will yield about 6 cups once cooked. You can find chicken livers in the refrigerated meat section of your supermarket or at your local butcher shop. If you prefer, you can use a food processor to chop the chicken livers; it will take about six pulses to finely chop them. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount of cayenne pepper. Ingredients
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 slices bacon, chopped
2 green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped fine
2 onions, chopped fine
1 celery rib, chopped fine
12 scallions, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
Salt and pepper
1 pound ground pork
8 ounces chicken livers, trimmed and chopped fine
1 tablespoon paprika
11/2 teaspoons granulated garlic
1⁄2 teaspoon celery salt
1⁄4–1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 cups chicken broth
6 cups cooked long-grain white rice
Hot sauce

Directions
1.

Cook’s Country: Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup (Ep 1412)

Old-Fashioned Chicken Noodle Soup
SERVES 4 TO 6

We were after a comforting, deeply flavored chicken noodle soup that was easy enough to make when you’re feeling under the weather. Browning bone-in chicken pieces before simmering them in store- bought chicken broth creates an intensely chicken-y soup base. A standard mix of onion, celery, and carrot simmered alongside the chicken enhanced rather than distracted from the chicken broth’s richness. And though egg noodles are common in homemade versions, tasters preferred spaghetti broken into bite-size pieces, which gave a nostalgic nod to canned versions but had loads more flavor. Ingredients

1 ½ pounds bone-in chicken breasts and/or thighs, trimmed

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

8 cups chicken broth

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 celery rib, cut into ½-inch pieces

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

5 ounces spaghetti, broken into 1-inch pieces (1½ cups)

1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

Directions
1.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Meat Free Gravy

Rich and Savory Meat-Free Gravy
11⁄4 hours
21⁄2 cups

This all-purpose vegetarian gravy is so rich and full-flavored, the carnivores at the table likely will not suspect it’s meat-free. Pour it over mashed potatoes or roasted vegetables or even serve it alongside a roasted chicken or turkey. We build deep savoriness into it by browning the ingredients and deglazing the flavorful drippings. Plus, we use both miso and tomato paste to lend umami notes; soy sauce also adds depth of flavor and color. If you have dried shiitake mushrooms in your pantry, simmering one or two (broken into pieces) into the mix adds an extra layer of meaty flavor, but the gravy is delicious without them.

Milk Street: Flavors of Ethiopia (Ep 523)

Ethiopian Stewed Collard Greens (Gomen Wat)
Start to finish: 1 hour (20 minutes active)
Servings: 4

Gomen wat translates as “collard greens stew.” In Ethiopia, we tasted multiple versions of the hardy greens braised with beef (in which case, the dish is called gomen besiga), but we prefer the lighter, brighter, more flavorful version in which the greens are cooked without meat. Ethiopian butter, made from fermented milk, infuses dishes to which it’s added—including the gomen wat we sampled—with a unique depth of flavor and appealing funkiness, not unlike a fragrant cheese. Indian ghee, which is easier to find, is a
reasonably good substitute. Look for ghee in either the refrigerator section near the butter or in the grocery aisle near the coconut oil. If you cannot find it, use salted butter in its place but also add 1 teaspoon white miso along with the broth to subtly boost flavor.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Brown Ale Turkey and Gravy

Brown Ale Turkey and Gravy
31⁄2 hours (30 min active)
10 servings

How to roast the thanksgiving turkey has turned into an annual ordeal. The debate over brining alone is enough to make one consider going vegetarian. And of course there’s the finicky business of how to get the thigh and breast meat to cook to perfect—yet different—temperatures simultaneously. We knew we had been overthinking this for far too long. So we decided to skip the culinary gymnastics and instead perfected a tried-and-true method: basting.

Cook’s Country: Transylvanian Goulash (Ep 1510)

Transylvanian Goulash
SERVES 6 TO 8

Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. Since paprika is vital to the success of this recipe, it is best to use a fresh bottle. Do not substitute hot or smoked Spanish paprika for the sweet paprika called for here. Eden Organic jarred sauerkraut is the test kitchen’s favorite sauerkraut. Rinsing the sauerkraut reduces its sharp flavor and bite; if you prefer sharper sauerkraut flavor, omit this step.

Milk Street: New Wave Pizzas (Ep 606)

Pour-in-the-Pan Pizza with Tomatoes and Mozzarella
Start to finish: 6 hours (35 minutes active)
Servings: 4 to 6

The crust for this pizza borrows from the Milk Street recipe for a light, open-crumbed
focaccia, our re-creation of the focaccia we encountered in Bari, Italy. The pizza dough is
unusual in a couple ways: It uses so much water that it verges on a batter and it rises for
at least four hours on the counter (be sure to place the bowl in a warm spot). After rising,
the dough is poured out onto a greased 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet (also known
as a half sheet pan) to rest for 20 minutes before being nudged with oiled fingers to the
edges of the pan. Instead of making a single large pizza, you could make two 12-inch pies
using low-lipped, disk-shaped pizza pans, like the ones used in American-style pizzerias; see the directions below. Don’t forget to mist the baking sheet with cooking spray.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Easy-Bake Herbed Stuffing

Easy-Bake Herbed Stuffing
21⁄4 hours (30 minutes active)
8 servings

Let’s face it, stuffing is basically a flavorful sponge to soak up gravy and any stray melting butter that escapes a vegetable. But mincing and sautéing the aromatics that help turn bland bread tasty is a chore. We speed things up – and maximize flavor – by giving butter, fresh herbs and raw shallots a whiz in the food processor, then using the resulting paste to season bread cubes while they toast in the oven. We found that any sturdy, high-quality sliced sandwich bread from the grocer worked well here. As the bread bakes, the raw bite of the shallots cooks off, leaving behind a mellow tang.

Cook’s Country: French Onion Soup (Ep 1411)

French Onion Soup
SERVES 4 TO 6

Be patient when caramelizing the onions; the entire process takes 55 to 70 minutes. If you don’t have oven safe soup crocks, form six individual piles of croutons on a baking sheet, cover them with the cheese, and broil them on the middle oven rack until the cheese is melted, 1 to 3 minutes. Then use a spatula to transfer the crouton portions to the individual filled soup bowls. Ingredients
4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 pounds onions, halved and sliced thin 1 ¾ teaspoons table salt, divided

1 teaspoon sugar

1 cup dry red wine

8 cups beef broth

4 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

¾ teaspoon pepper, divided

6 ounces baguette, cut into 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (2 cups)

1 ½ ounces Parmesan cheese, shredded (½ cup)

Directions
1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium-high heat.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Spiced Sweet Potato Tian

Spiced Sweet Potato Tian
1 hour 20 minutes (20 minutes active), plus cooling
4 to 6 servings

When you prepare sweet potatoes like this, you get the best of both worlds: tender, buttery rounds of sweet potato with crisped, browned edges. To balance the natural sweetness of the potatoes, we toss the slices with vinegar, spices and red pepper flakes, then tuck sliced shallot and sage or rosemary leaves in between the layers. Sweet potatoes can vary greatly in size. Try to choose medium-sized ones of about the same diameter so the slices fit neatly in the pie plate. The quickest way to slice the potatoes is with a mandoline—aim for slices about 1⁄8-inch thick.

Milk Street: Souvlaki and Flatbread (Ep 522)

Pork Souvlaki with Tzatziki and Tomato-Onion Salad
Start to finish: 1 hour
Servings: 6 to 8

In her book “Aegean,” Crete-born London chef Marianna Leivaditaki reveals that after a
recent visit to Turkey, she began incorporating fenugreek in her cooking, especially on grilled pork of all sorts. We, too, think that fenugreek, with its notes of mustard, fennel
and maple, brings intriguing and unique flavor to any dish to which it’s added (fenugreek is a key ingredient in curry powder). In adapting Leivaditaki’s recipe for an herb and spice- rubbed pork tenderloin, we sear the seasoned meat on the stovetop and finish it in a hot oven before thinly slicing it for serving (you will need an oven-safe 12-inch skillet for this recipe). To the seasoning mix, we add a little smoked paprika to evoke the flavors of an outdoor grill. “Souvlaki” often refers to meat cooked on skewers, but Leivaditaki explains that in Crete, souvlaki is meat wrapped in pita.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Roasted Carrots with Balsamic Raisins and Pine Nuts

Roasted Carrots with Balsamic Raisins and Pine Nuts
40 Minutes
8 Servings

In this simple side dish, carrots are roasted until caramelized, then combined with toasted pine nuts and raisins that have been plumped in white balsamic vinegar. If you can find rainbow carrots, they make for a colorful presentation. Sliced or slivered almonds are good stand-ins for the pine nuts. To help minimize last-minute prep, peel, slice and refrigerate the carrots in a zip-close bag for up to two days before cooking. The pine nuts can be toasted, cooled and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to two days, as well.

Cook’s Country: Chocolate Fudge (Ep 1509)

Chocolate Fudge
MAKES ABOUT 3 POUNDS

You will need a digital or candy thermometer for this recipe. We developed this recipe using Kraft Jet-Puffed Marshmallows. With this brand, 21 marshmallows yield 5 ounces. Be sure to use evaporated milk here, not sweetened condensed milk. We developed this recipe using Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate
Premium Baking Bar.

Milk Street: Quick Desserts (Ep 605)

 

Chocolate Olive Oil Cake
Start to finish: 11⁄4 hours (35 minutes active), plus cooling
Servings: 10 to 12

This rustic chocolate cake is made with two surprising ingredients: olive oil and lemon
juice. Extra-virgin olive oil lends fruity, peppery flavor notes. For a less prominent
flavor, use light olive oil (“light” indicates the oil is refined, not lower in fat). You could even use a combination of oils—for example, a robust extra-virgin olive oil tempered with a little neutral oil. The lemon juice brings a brightness that balances the richness of the
oil and chocolate, and its acidity reacts with the baking soda to provide lift.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Belgian Mashed Potatoes with Winter Vegetables

Belgian Mashed Potatoes with Winter Vegetables (Stoemp)
1 Hour
8 Servings

Stoemp (pronounced STOOMP) is a hearty Belgian dish of mashed potatoes mixed with finely cut winter vegetables. Our version includes leeks, carrots and cabbage, with a good dose of bay and garlic for fragrance and flavor. A tablespoon of white balsamic vinegar brightens the dish while adding a touch of sweetness, but white wine vinegar worked, too. Make sure to rinse the leeks well; their many layers trap dirt and sand. It’s best to rinse them after slicing so you can get between the layers.

Cook’s Country: Bacon-Wrapped Pork Roast with Peach Sauce (Ep 1410)

Bacon-Wrapped Pork Roast with Peach Sauce
SERVES 8

Wrapping a pork loin roast in bacon not only adds big, smoky flavor to the mild meat, but it also encases the roast in a layer of protective fat that bastes the pork as it renders. To add extra flavor and juiciness, we first rub the pork with a mixture of salt and sugar and let it chill for at least an hour. We found that achieving a rosy, moist roast with a beautifully browned bacon crust required a two-pronged cooking approach: We roast the pork in a low 250-degree oven until it reaches 90 degrees. Then, we crank the oven to 475 degrees to brown the bacon and finish cooking the roast. Brushing the bacon with a quick-cooking peach sauce gives it a rich, lacquered appearance.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Green Beans with Browned Butter and Almonds

Green Beans with Browned Butter and Almonds
25 Minutes
4 Servings

This easy one-pot side was inspired by classic green bean almondine. First, the beans simmer in a small amount of water until tender-crisp. then, the liquid is cooked off, leaving them lightly glazed with butter. We especially like the texture of slivered almonds in this dish, but just about any type of nut pairs well with the beans. Red pepper adds a touch of piquancy and lemon zest and juice brightens up the flavors.

Cook’s Country: Neorm Sach Moan (Ep 1508)

Neorm Sach Moan
SERVES 4

This recipe is adapted from a dish by Nite Yun, owner and chef of Nyum Bai, a Cambodian restaurant in Oakland, California. You can substitute Italian basil for Thai basil. If you can’t find Persian cucumber, use 1 cup of thinly sliced English cucumber. A mandoline makes quick work of evenly shredding the cabbage
and slicing the radishes and cucumber. Ingredients
1 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breast, trimmed
1/4 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for poaching chicken
6 tablespoons fish sauce
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1 Thai chile, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
4 cups shredded green cabbage
2 ounces (2 cups) baby mizuna or baby arugula, chopped coarse
1 cup shredded red cabbage
1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin
1 Persian cucumber, halved crosswise and sliced thin lengthwise
4 radishes, trimmed and sliced thin
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus 2 tablespoons leaves
1/4 cup chopped fresh Thai basil
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint
1/4 cup salted dry-roasted peanuts, chopped

Directions
1.

Milk Street: Tuesday Night Mediterranean (Ep 521)

Provençal Braised Chicken
Start to finish: 45 minutes
Servings: 4

Think of this dish as bouillabaisse made with chicken instead of seafood. Fresh fennel,
garlic, white wine, orange zest and saffron give the braise rich, heady perfume and an
unmistakably Mediterranean flavor. Any unoaked dry white wine works well here,
but ideally look for one produced in southern France, such as white Côtes du Rhône or marsanne. We use strips of orange zest instead of grated zest to lend citrusy notes to the braise. A sharp Y-style vegetable peeler is the best tool for peeling away zest strips, but try to remove only the colored peel, not the bitter white pith just underneath.

Milk Street Thanksgiving: Soy-Glazed Braised Brussels Sprouts

Soy-Glazed Braised Brussels Sprouts
35 Minutes
4 Servings

Tare (pronounced tah-reh) is a Japanese seasoning liquid typically made with a soy sauce base, often enhanced by mirin, sake, ginger and garlic. Here, we use those ingredients with Brussels sprouts. We first brown the halved sprouts in butter to develop rich, nutty flavor notes, braise them until tender, then allow the moisture to cook off, leaving the sprouts coated with a salty-sweet glaze. Don’t stir the sprouts too often in the first step. The key is to let them brown and char slightly in order to produce a rich, complex sauce.

Cook’s Country: Chicken Paprikash (Ep 1409)

Chicken Paprikash
SERVES 4 TO 6

To allow vibrant paprika to shine in this comforting Hungarian chicken stew, we added it with the chicken broth (blooming it in hot oil burned it and turned it bitter almost instantly). We used skinless chicken thighs for tender meat without the grease and added sweetness to the stew with softened bell pepper and onion. A bit of cayenne added warmth and enhanced the paprika’s earthy flavor. Finishing the dish with a mixture of sour cream and flour thickened and enriched the rust-hued stew. Ingredients

¼         cup extra-virgin olive oil

1       large onion, halved and sliced thin

1       red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin

1       (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes, drained

5        garlic cloves, chopped fine

2        teaspoons table salt, divided

8      (5- to 7-ounce) bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed, trimmed

¾   teaspoon pepper

2½  cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons paprika, plus extra for serving

¼    teaspoon cayenne pepper

1⁄₃     cup sour cream, plus extra for serving

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2    tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Directions

1.

Milk Street: The Art of Japanese Cooking (Ep 520)

Japanese-Style Chicken and Vegetable Curry
Start to finish: 1 hour
Servings: 4

Japanese curry is wildly popular, including outside Japan. Some restaurants specialize in
the dish, offering dozens of iterations, from basic beef curry to fried cutlets and croquettes with curry, hamburger curry, even curried omelets. At home, Japanese curry typically is made using commercially produced “bricks,” which are seasonings mixed with a roux and packaged much like bars of chocolate. Added near the end of cooking, a curry brick, broken into pieces, melts into the mix, seasoning the dish as well as thickening it. Sonoko Sakai, a Los Angeles-based cooking instructor and author of “Japanese Home Cooking,” blends her own curry powder, which she uses to create all-natural, additive-free homemade curry bricks.

Milk Street: The Real Fettuccine Alfredo (Ep 603)

Fettuccine Alfredo
Start to finish: 30 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6

Made the Italian way, fettuccine Alfredo bears little resemblance to the unctuous, cream-based pasta dish that’s popular in the U.S. We scoured Italy for the best versions, and our
favorite was prepared by home cook Francesca Guccione in Castelnuovo di Porto, just outside Rome. Rich, luxurious and elegant but neither heavy nor cloying, Guccione’s fettuccine Alfredo, like other Roman recipes for the dish, consists of only fresh pasta, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, butter and salt. The secret lies in using high-
quality ingredients and combining them in just the right way, and in just the right
volumes. We adapted her winning formula but incorporated a technique we saw employed at a couple restaurants of putting softened butter (rather than melted) into the bowl in which the hot pasta will be tossed. Of utmost importance is the cheese. Purchase a hefty chunk of true Parmigiano Reggiano—not the pre-shredded stuff—trim off the rind (save it for simmering into soups and stews), cut 6 ounces into rough 1⁄2-inch pieces and whir them in a food processor until very finely ground.

Milk Street: Greek Mezze (Ep 602)

Greek Meatballs with Tomato Sauce (Soutzoukakia)
Start to finish: 1 hour 20 minutes
Servings: 4 to 6

Known as soutzoukakia, these cigar-shaped meatballs are seasoned with cumin and
garlic, then simmered in tomato sauce. The dish has origins in Smyrna, a former Greek
settlement and now the Turkish city of Izmir on the Aegean coast. Our recipe is based on
the soutzoukakia we learned from Alexandra Manousakis and Afshin Molavi of Manousakis Winery on the Greek island of Crete. Made with a combination of ground lamb and beef, the meatballs have a deep, rich flavor perfectly matched by the tangy-sweet tomato sauce. If you prefer, you can use 1 pound of either type of meat.

Cook’s Country: St. Paul Sandwich (Ep 1407)

St. Paul Sandwich
SERVES 4

Despite its name, the St. Paul sandwich originated in St. Louis, where we watched Rudy Lieu of Fortune Express crank out dozens of the egg foo yong sandwiches to fill lunch orders. While Lieu deep-fried his egg foo yong in an oil-filled wok for a fluffy, frizzled, sandwich-size patty, we opted to cook ours in ½ cup of oil in a non- stick skillet.

Milk Street: Cooking of Ukraine (Ep 518)

Borsch with Duck and Prunes
Start to finish: 23⁄4 hours
Servings: 4 to 6

In “Summer Kitchens,” Olia Hercules writes about the history of borsch, its importance in Ukranian cuisine, seasonal and regional influences on the soup, and her own family’s recipes. For our adaptation of her resplendent borsch with duck and smoked pears, we opt to use prunes, a substitution she suggests. You also can replace the duck with a small rack of pork baby back ribs, if you’re so inclined. The borsch is made by simmering duck legs (or pork ribs) with aromatics to make a flavorful broth; the meat then is shredded off the bones and added to the soup at the end. As the broth simmers, aromatics for the borsch are sautéed in a separate pot so they are ready to receive the broth, which is strained directly into aromatics.

Milk Street: L.A.’s Best Tacos (Ep 601)

Fried Shrimp Tacos with Salsa Roja
Start to finish: 11⁄4 hours
Makes 8 tacos

At Mariscos Jalisco, Raul Ortega’s food truck in the Boyle Heights area of Los Angeles, the tacos de camarón, or shrimp tacos, are the main attraction, and for good reason. Ortega stuffs a perfectly seasoned shrimp filling into tortillas and fries the tacos to golden brown crispness before finishing them with tomato salsa and avocado. His recipe is a closely guarded secret, but in her version of those tacos, food writer and recipe developer Paola Briseño-González attempts to replicate that delicious melding of flavors and textures. The shrimp are chopped in a food processor to make the filling, so though the recipe specifies shrimp of a certain size, just about any size will work. Don’t try to bypass the step of warming the tortillas before filling them.

Cook’s Country: Italian Meatloaf (Ep 1406)

Italian Meatloaf
SERVES 6 TO 8

This Italian Meatloaf is essentially an excellent recipe for meatballs and marinara without any of the hands-on fuss. We started with an intensely flavorful meatball mix—ground beef, Italian sausage, Parmesan cheese, garlic, and oregano—but instead of rolling dozens of meatballs, we just shaped one meatloaf. Mixing in a paste of crushed saltines, eggs, and milk ensured that the meatloaf held its shape and baked up tender and moist. We whipped together a bright, garlicky 5-minute tomato sauce, poured it over the meatloaf in a baking dish, and baked the two together, elevating and enriching both meatloaf and sauce in the process. For a next-level finishing touch, we topped the meatloaf with creamy melted fontina and a sprinkling of fresh basil.

Milk Street: Schnitzel and Mashed! (Ep 517)

German Pork Schnitzel
Start to finish: 40 minutes
Servings: 4

During a visit to Berlin, we learned that the coating for authentic German pork Schnitzel, or Schweineschnitzel, is dry breadcrumbs made from kaiser rolls, which are extremely fine-textured. For ease, we developed this recipe using store-bought plain dry breadcrumbs, but if you’d like to make kaiser crumbs, which are a touch sweeter, wheatier and fresher tasting than prepared breadcrumbs, see the instructions below. Indian ghee (clarified butter) is a counterintuitive ingredient for Schnitzel, but adding just a small amount to the frying oil adds richer, fuller flavor; look for ghee in the refrigerator case near the butter or in the grocery aisle alongside the coconut oil. If you cannot find it, the Schnitzel still is tasty without. To fry the cutlets, we use a large Dutch oven instead of a skillet; the pot’s high walls safely contain the hot oil and reduce splatter on the stovetop.

Cook’s Country: Blueberry Biscuits (Ep 1505)

 

Blueberry Biscuits
SERVES 9 (MAKES 9 BISCUITS)

We prefer the flavor of fresh blueberries here, but you can also use 71⁄2 ounces (11⁄2 cups) of frozen blueberries that have been thawed, drained, and then patted dry with paper towels. If you have leftover buttermilk, it can be frozen in ice cube trays, transferred to zipper-lock freezer bags, and frozen for up to a month. Upon thawing, the whey and the milk solids will separate; simply whisk the buttermilk back together before using it. Ingredients

BISCUITS
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, plus 10
tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1⁄2-inch
pieces and chilled
3 cups (15 ounces) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (31⁄2 ounces) sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1¼ teaspoons table salt
7 1/2 ounces (11⁄2 cups) blueberries
12/3 cups buttermilk, chilled

HONEY BUTTER
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon honey
Pinch table salt

Directions
1. FOR THE BISCUITS: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees.

Milk Street: Udon Noodles at Home (Ep 515)

Homemade Udon Noodles
Start to finish: 4 hours (11⁄2 hours active)
Makes about 13⁄4 pounds uncooked noodles (about 3 lbs cooked noodles)

Udon is a type of Japanese wheat noodle. The
thick, chewy strands can be served in hot soup,
eaten cold with dipping sauce, stir-fried or simply sauced. When adapting Sonoko Sakai’s udon formula from her book, “Japanese Home
Cooking,” we found that the type of flour used
and relative humidity can impact how much
water is needed to make the noodle dough. For
best results, the dough should be on the dry side, but should contain just enough moisture so it holds together when first mixed; if needed, work in more water 1 tablespoon at a time, but err on the side of dry rather than wet. With resting and kneading, the dough will hydrate and become smooth, silky and very elastic.

Cook’s Country: Okra and Shrimp Stew (Ep 1503)

Okra and Shrimp Stew
SERVES 8 TO 10

If you can find medium shrimp (41 to 50 per pound), use those and leave them whole. Look for meaty ham hocks. If you buy the test kitchen’s preferred brand of andouille sausage, Jacob’s World Famous Andouille, which tends to be thicker than other products, halve it lengthwise before slicing it crosswise. Ingredients
4 quarts water
1–11⁄4 pounds smoked ham hocks
1 onion, quartered
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
12 ounces andouille sausage, sliced 1⁄4 inch thick
1 pound frozen or fresh okra (stemmed and cut
crosswise 1⁄2 inch thick for fresh)
1 (14.5-ounce) can diced tomatoes
1 ½ cups frozen baby lima (aka butter) beans
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons table salt
1 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon granulated garlic
1 teaspoon onion powder
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 pound large shrimp (26 to 30 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed, cut into thirds
Cooked white rice

Directions

1. Combine water, ham hocks, onion, and bay leaf in large Dutch oven and bring to boil over high heat.

Milk Street: The New NY Cheesecake! (Ep 514)

Chèvre Cheesecake with Black Pepper-Graham Crust
Start to finish: 21⁄2 hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling + refrigerating
Servings: 12 to 16

Angie Mar, chef/owner of Beatrice Inn in New York City, may be best known for her
artistry with all things meat, but we’re smitten with her chèvre cheesecake, the recipe for which is found in her book “Butcher + Beast.” Made with equal parts chèvre (fresh goat cheese) and cream cheese plus a generous measure of crème fraîche, the cake has the perfect amount of savoriness and tanginess—and a surprisingly light texture despite its richness. In addition to scaling Mar’s recipe to fit into a standard 9-inch springform, we mixed lemon zest into the filling to lift the flavor and add citrusy notes that play off the black pepper in the crust. The best way to gauge doneness of the cake is with an instant thermometer inserted through the side (in the area where the filling has risen above the pan), with the probe angled slightly down and to the center; 145°F to 150°F is the finished temperature. To cut clean slices, warm the knife blade by dipping it into a pitcher of hot water; wipe the blade dry before and after each cut and rewarm it as needed. Covered tightly with foil and refrigerated, the cheesecake keeps well for up to four days, though the crust softens over time.

Cook’s Country: Green Goddess Roast Chicken (Ep 1402)

Green Goddess Roast Chicken
SERVES 4 TO 6

Green goddess dressing, made with lots of fresh herbs and rich mayonnaise, is a creamy, tangy complement to sweet butter lettuce or a classic dip for crunchy crudités, but we wanted to let this goddess spread her wings beyond the salad bowl. When slathered on chicken and roasted, it makes a great counterpoint to the ultra savory, rich roasted meat. For this recipe, we blended fresh chives, parsley, and tarragon with tangy buttermilk, lemon juice, sharp garlic, and meaty anchovy fillets and then marinated the chicken pieces in a portion of this mixture. We roasted the chicken on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet until the skin was deep golden brown and the meat was moist and juicy. We then whisked 2 tablespoons of the reserved blended herb mixture with some mayonnaise and a splash more buttermilk to make a fresh, vibrant sauce to serve with the chicken.

Cook’s Country: Japanese Steakhouse Dinner (Ep 1501)

Japanese Steakhouse Dinner
SERVES 4

Strip steaks can be substituted for the rib eyes, if desired. Mirin can be found in your supermarket’s Asian foods section. We like to serve the steak and vegetables with Simple Hibachi-Style Fried Rice, Spicy Mayonnaise (Yum-Yum Sauce), White Mustard Sauce, and Sweet Ginger Sauce (recipes follow). If using a non-stick skillet, heat the oil in the skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking before adding the steaks in step 2. STEAK AND VEGETABLES
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 (1-pound) boneless rib-eye steaks,
11⁄2 to 13⁄4 inches thick, trimmed
11⁄4teaspoons white pepper, divided
1 teaspoon table salt, divided
1tablespoon vegetable oil
2 zucchini (8 ounces each), halved lengthwise and sliced 3⁄4 inch thick
2 onions, cut into 3⁄4-inch pieces
6 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and halved if small or quartered if large
2 tablespoons mirin

1.Combine melted butter, soy sauce, and garlic in bowl; set aside.

America’s Test Kitchen: Pupusas with Curtido (Ep 2225)

Pupusas with Curtido

SERVES 4 (MAKES 8 PUPUSAS)
TIME 1 ¼ HOURS

For an accurate measurement of boiling water, bring a full kettle of water to a boil and then measure out the desired amount. Properly hydrated masa dough should be tacky, requiring damp hands to keep it from sticking to your palms. If the dough feels the slightest bit dry at any time, knead in warm tap water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the dough is tacky. An occasional leak while frying the pupusas is to be expected, and the browned cheese is delicious. Feta cheese can be substituted for the cotija; if you can find quesillo, use 10 ounces in place of the cotija and Monterey Jack. PUPUSAS

2    cups (8 ounces) masa harina

½    teaspoon table salt

2  cups boiling water, plus warm tap water as needed

2    teaspoons vegetable oil, divided

2  ounces cotija cheese, cut into 2 pieces

8  ounces Monterey Jack cheese, cut into 8 pieces

1     recipe Curtido (recipe follows)

Salsa to serve

CURTIDO

1     cup cider vinegar

½    cup water

1     tablespoon sugar

1 ½     teaspoons table salt

½  head green cabbage, cored & sliced thin (6 cups)

1     onion, sliced thin

1      large carrot, peeled & shredded

1      jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeded & minced

1      teaspoon dried oregano

1     cup chopped fresh cilantro

1.

America’s Test Kitchen: Fresh Peach Pie (Ep 2224)

Fresh Peach Pie with All Butter Lattice Top

SERVES 8

If your peaches are too soft to withstand the pressure of a peeler, cut a shallow X in the bottom of the fruit, blanch them in a pot of simmering water for 15 seconds, and then shock them in a bowl of ice water before peeling. For fruit pectin we recommend both Sure-Jell for Less or No Sugar Needed Recipes and Ball RealFruit Low or No-Sugar Needed Pectin. Ingredients

FILLING

3 pounds peaches, peeled, quartered, and pitted, each quarter cut into thirds

½    cup (3 ½ ounces) plus 3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice

⅛    teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons low- or no-sugar-needed fruit pectin

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch ground nutmeg

1      tablespoon cornstarch

FOOLPROOF ALL-BUTTER DOUGH

20  tablespoons (2 ½  sticks) unsalted butter, chilled

2 ½ cups (12 ½ ounces) all-purpose flour

2    tablespoons sugar

1     teaspoon salt

½    cup ice water

1. FOR THE FILLING: Toss peaches, ½ cup sugar, lemon zest and juice, and salt in medium bowl. Let stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour.

America’s Test Kitchen: Broiled Chicken with Gravy (Ep 2222)

Broiled Chicken with Gravy

SERVES 4

TIME 1 ¾ HOURS

If your broiler has multiple settings, choose the highest one. This recipe won’t work with a drawer-style broiler. You will need a broiler-safe 12-inch skillet. The backbone and trimmings provide plenty of flavor for the gravy, but if your chicken comes with the giblets and neck, use them as well. Feel free to substitute dry vermouth for the white wine.

Milk Street: The Turkish Kitchen (Ep 511)

Turkish Flatbreads (Yufka)
Start to finish: 13⁄4 hours (45 minutes active)
Makes six 8- to 9-inch flatbreads

The Turkish flatbread called yufka is fast and easy to make largely because it’s unleavened (that is, yeast free). As chef Ana Sortun, whose recipe from “Soframiz” we adapted, explains, yufka is more slender than a flour tortilla but more substantial than phyllo. Yufka stuffed with filling, folded and toasted in a skillet becomes a gozleme (p. TK), or the flatbreads can be used to make sandwich wraps or for scooping up dips and spreads. This dough comes together quickly, requires only an hour of rest, is a breeze to roll out and each bread cooks in just a couple of minutes in a pan on the stovetop.

America’s Test Kitchen: Mustardy Apple Butter-Glazed Pork Chops (Ep 2221)

Mustardy Apple Butter-Glazed Pork Chops

SERVES 4

TIME 1¼ HOURS

If your broiler has multiple temperature settings, use the highest. We like the consistency that Musselman’s Apple Butter gives the glaze; if you’re using another brand, you may need to thin the glaze with up to 1 tablespoon of water. Ingredients

3 tablespoons apple butter
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon soy sauce
½ teaspoon cider vinegar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless pork chops, ¾ to 1 inch thick, trimmed
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 275 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil and set wire rack in sheet.

Finding Your Roots – Science Pioneers

Finding Your Roots – Science Pioneers
Henry Louis Gates, Jr. traces the family trees of Francis Collins, Shirley Ann Jackson and Harold Varmus – three pioneering scientists who’ve made dramatic contributions to our understanding of the world, while knowing little about their own ancestry. Finding Your Roots – Science Pioneers airs Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 8:00 pm on WSKG-HD.  

You can watch past episodes of Finding Your Roots on WSKG Passport. For more information about WSKG Passport, please visit our support page.  

America’s Test Kitchen: Yeasted Doughnuts (Ep 2220)

Yeasted Doughnuts

SERVES 12 DOUGHNUTS

TIME 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 10 HOURS RESTING

WHY THIS WORKS: Our yeasted doughnuts are moist but light with a tender chew and restrained sweetness, thanks to a careful balance of fat, sugar, and moisture in the dough. We chilled the dough overnight—a step called cold fermentation—so that it was faster to make the doughnuts in the morning. The dough also developed more complex flavor and was easier to handle when cold. Shutting the cut doughnuts in the oven with a loaf pan of boiling water—a makeshift baker’s proof box—encouraged them to rise quickly; we then briefly fried them on both sides in moderately hot oil until they turned golden brown. We dipped them in a thin, fluid confectioners’ sugar–based glaze, which set into a sheer, matte shell.

Milk Street: Everyday Venice (Ep 510)

Venetian Rice and Peas (Risi e Bisi)
Start to finish: 11⁄4 hours
Servings: 4 to 6

Rice and peas, or risi e bisi, is a classic Venetian dish, traditionally eaten on April 25,
St. Mark’s Day. Much like risotto, the rice is rich and creamy because of the starchiness of
the grains and how they are cooked. But risi e bisi typically is a bit soupier. Sweet peas stud the dish, and in the version taught to us by Michela Tasca, owner of Ca’ de Memi farm and bed and breakfast in Piombino Dese outside of Venice, the al dente grains were
bathed in beautiful pale green broth, a result of peas pureed into the cooking liquid.

America’s Test Kitchen: Sichuan Noodles with Chili Sauce and Pork (Ep 2219)

Dan Dan Mian (Sichuan Noodles with Chili Sauce and Pork)

SERVES 4

TIME 1 ¼ HOURS

If you can’t find Sichuan chili powder, substitute Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru). Sichuan peppercorns provide a tingly, numbing sensation that’s important to this dish; find them in the spice aisle at Asian markets. We prefer the chewy texture of fresh, eggless Chinese wheat noodles here. If they aren’t available, substitute fresh lo mein or ramen noodles or 8 ounces of dried lo mein noodles. Ya cai, Sichuan preserved mustard greens, gives these noodles a savory and pungent boost; you can buy it online or at an Asian market.

America’s Test Kitchen: Egg, Kimchi, and Avocado Sandwiches (Ep 2215)

Egg, Kimchi, and Avocado Sandwiches

SERVES 4

TIME 1 ¼ HOURS

This recipe requires an 8-inch square metal baking pan. Avoid using a ceramic or glass dish, which will increase the cooking time and could cause the eggs to overcook during cooling. We like the flavor and texture of kaiser rolls for these sandwiches, but you can substitute 4- inch bulkie rolls, English muffins, or burger buns, if desired. If you omit the kimchi from your sandwiches, you may want to season the eggs with additional salt after baking. For maximum efficiency, gather and prepare the sandwich fillings while the eggs cook, and toast the rolls while the eggs cool.

America’s Test Kitchen: Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread) (Ep 2214)

Lahmajun (Armenian Flatbread)

SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS 17 HOURS RESTING

You’ll need a baking peel for this recipe; if you don’t have one, use an over- turned rimmed baking sheet instead. King Arthur All-Purpose Flour gives these flatbreads the perfect balance of crispness and tenderness, but if it’s unavailable, substitute any major brand of all-purpose flour. We strongly recommend weighing the flour and the water. Jarred biber salçası (Turkish red pepper paste) can be found in Middle Eastern grocery stores or online. Be sure to use the mild variety; if it’s unavailable, increase the tomato paste in the topping to 2 tablespoons and increase the paprika to 4 teaspoons.

America’s Test Kitchen: Goan Pork Vindaloo (Ep 2212)

Goan Pork Vindalooo
SERVES 8
TIME 2 ½ HOURS

WHY THIS WORKS: The word “vindaloo” has evolved to indicate a searingly hot curry because of its adoption into British cuisine, but the original Goan dish is a brightly flavored but relatively mild pork braise made with dried Kashmiri chiles and plenty of spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. Vindaloo should have a pronounced vinegary tang, but we found that adding the vinegar at the beginning made the meat chalky. We withheld it until half- way through cooking so that we could use less but still enjoy the characteristic acidity. Moving the cooking from the stovetop to the oven made this dish hands-off and foolproof. Ingredients

¾   cup water

1 (2-inch) piece ginger, peeled and sliced crosswise ⅛ inch thick

6    garlic cloves

3     tablespoons Kashmiri chile powder

1      tablespoon paprika

1 tablespoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons table salt

1     teaspoon pepper

¼ – ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

½    teaspoon ground cinnamon

½     teaspoon ground cardamom

¼    teaspoon ground cloves

¼     teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 (3-3½ pound) boneless pork butt roast, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces

1     tablespoon vegetable oil

1      large onion, chopped fine

⅓    cup coconut vinegar

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Kashmiri chile powder should have a brilliant red hue, a fruity flavor, and a slightly tannic edge, but very little heat.

Milk Street Vegetarian (Ep 506)

Cauliflower Steaks with Pickled Peppers, Capers and Parmesan
Start to finish: 45 minutes
Servings: 4

To make a satisfying vegetarian main, we cut thick cauliflower “steaks” from the center section of the whole head; you’ll get two steaks per head. The ends that are left over
tend to fall apart because they’re detached from the core, but don’t discard them—use
them to make cauliflower rice, roast them separately or make them into soup. The
savory-sweet topping for these cauliflower steaks riffs on a recipe in “Six Seasons” by Joshua McFadden. Don’t forget to pat dry the pickled peppers and capers. Removing excess moisture will help the topping brown better in the oven.

America’s Test Kitchen: Pasta with Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce and Fried Caper Crumbs (Ep 2208)

Pasta with Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce and Fried Caper Crumbs

SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME 50 MINUTES

Be sure to use cherry tomatoes; grape tomatoes won’t break down as much and will produce a drier sauce. Our topping contributes crunch and depth, but you can substitute 1 cup (2 ounces) of grated Parmesan cheese, if desired. For a spicier dish, use the larger amount of red pepper flakes. Ingredients

TOPPING

2    tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼    cup capers, rinsed and patted dry

1     anchovy fillet, rinsed, patted dry & minced

½    cup panko breads crumbs

⅛    teaspoon table salt

⅛    teaspoon pepper

¼    cup minced fresh parsley

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

PASTA

¼  cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 garlic cloves, sliced thin

2  anchovy fillets, rinsed and patted dry

2  pounds cherry tomatoes

1 ½    teaspoons table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

¼    teaspoon sugar

⅛ – ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

12 ounces penne rigate, orecchiette, campanelle, or other short pasta

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 2 pieces and chilled

1    cup fresh basil leaves, torn if large

1. FOR THE TOPPING: Heat oil in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until shim- mering. Add capers and anchovy and cook, stirring frequently, until capers have darkened and shrunk, 3 to 4 minutes.

America’s Test Kitchen: Pan-Seared Shrimp with Peanuts, Black Pepper, and Lime (Ep 2207)

Pan-Seared Shrimp with Peanuts, Black Pepper, And Lime

SERVES 4

TIME 45 MINUTES

We prefer untreated shrimp; if yours are treated with additives such as sodium tripolyphosphate, skip the salting in step 1. You can substitute jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 per pound) for the extra-large shrimp; if substituting, increase the cooking time by 1 to 2 minutes. To use the plain seared shrimp as a neutral protein in rice bowls or salads, skip steps 2 and 4. Ingredients

1 ½ pounds extra-large shrimp (21 to 25 per pound), peeled, deveined, and tails removed

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1      teaspoon black peppercorns

1     teaspoon paprika

1     garlic clove, minced

1 ⅛     teaspoons sugar, divided

⅛     teaspoon red pepper flakes

4    teaspoons vegetable oil, divided

½     cup fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems, chopped

1    tablespoon lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving

3     tablespoons dry-roasted peanuts, chopped coarse

1. Toss shrimp and ½ teaspoon salt together in bowl; set aside for 15 to 30 minutes.

Ken Burns Presents Hiding in Plain Sight: Youth Mental Illness | A film by Erik Ewers and Christopher Loren Ewers

HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT: YOUTH MENTAL ILLNESS, which premieres June 27 and 28, 2022 at 9:00 p.m. ET (check local listings) on PBS, PBS.org and the PBS Video app, features first-person accounts from more than 20 young people, ranging in age from 11 to 27, who live with mental health conditions. The documentary also includes commentary from parents, teachers, friends, healthcare providers in their lives, and independent mental health experts. The program presents an unvarnished window into daily life with mental health challenges, from seemingly insurmountable obstacles to stories of hope and resilience. Through the experiences of these young people, the film confronts the issues of stigma, discrimination, awareness, and silence, and, in doing so, helps advance a shift in the public perception of mental health issues today. The film is part of Well Beings, a national multiplatform campaign from WETA Washington, D.C., the flagship public media station in the nation’s capital, to demystify and destigmatize our physical and mental health through storytelling.

America’s Test Kitchen: Challah (Ep 2206)

Challah

MAKES 1 LOAF

TIME 1 3⁄4 HOURS, PLUS 7 HOURS RESTING AND COOLING

We strongly recommend weighing the flour for this recipe. This dough will be firmer and drier than most bread doughs, which makes it easy to braid. Some friction is necessary for rolling and braiding the ropes, so resist the urge to dust your counter with flour. If your counter is too narrow to stretch the ropes, slightly bend the pieces at the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions. Bake this loaf on two nested baking sheets to keep the bottom of the loaf from getting too dark.

America’s Test Kitchen: Kimchi Fried Rice (Ep 2205)

Kimchi Bokkeumbap (Kimchi Fried Rice)

SERVES SERVES 4 TO 6

TIME 45 MINUTES

WHY THIS WORKS: Iconic, quick-cooking Korean comfort food’, kimchi bok-keumbap is typically made with leftover cooked short-grain rice and well-fermented kimchi, but from there seasonings and additions to bulk it up vary widely from cook to cook. We started by stir-frying some aromatics (chopped onion and sliced scallions) with chopped ham—a popular addition that we liked for its smoky flavor and pleasantly springy texture. Then we added lots of chopped cabbage kimchi along with some of its savory, punchy juice and a little water and seasoned it with soy sauce, toasted sesame oil, and gochujang to add savoriness, rich nuttiness, and a little more heat. We simmered the cabbage leaves so that they softened a bit; stirred in the rice and cooked the mixture until the liquid had been absorbed; and topped the rice with small strips of gim, sesame seeds, and scallion greens. Ingredients

1 (8-inch square) sheet gim

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

2    (1⁄4-inch-thick) slices deli ham, cut into 1⁄4-inch pieces (about 4 ounces)

1     large onion, chopped

6 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin on bias

1 ¼    cups cabbage kimchi, drained with 1⁄4 cup juice reserved, cut into 1⁄4-inch strips

¼    cup water

4    teaspoons soy sauce

4  teaspoons gochujang paste

½    teaspoon pepper

3 cups cooked short-grain white rice

4 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1      tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: This recipe works best with day-old rice; alter- natively, cook your rice 2 hours ahead, spread it on a rimmed baking sheet, and let it cool completely before chilling it for 30 minutes.

Milk Street Israel New and Old (Ep 505)

Lebanese Baked Kafta with Potatoes and Tomatoes
Start to finish: 11⁄2 hours (1 hour active), plus cooling
Servings: 4 to 6

It’s easy to see why kafta bil sanieh, a casserole, if you will, of sliced potatoes, rounds of
tomatoes and flavorful kafta (seasoned meatballs or meat patties), is Lebanese comfort
food. The ingredients are shingled into a baking dish and baked until the flavors meld and the textures become deliciously succulent and tender. Our rendition, based on a recipe from “The Palestinian Table” by Reem Kassis, starts with a simple no-cook tomato sauce in the bottom of the baking dish, where juices collect during baking and form a delicious sauce. To ensure the potatoes cook evenly and thoroughly, we precook them by roasting them for about 10 minutes, enough time to begin making the kafta. We especially like the flavor of ground lamb kafta, but if you prefer, use 80 percent lean ground beef instead.

America’s Test Kitchen: Popovers (Ep 2204)

Popovers

SERVES MAKES 6 POPOVERS

TIME 1½ HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR STANDING

WHY THIS WORKS: Greasing the pans with shortening ensures the best release, but vegetable oil spray may be substituted; do not use butter. To gauge the popovers’ progress without opening the oven door, use the oven light during baking. Bread flour makes for the highest and sturdiest popovers, but an equal amount of all-purpose flour may be substituted. Ingredients

3 large eggs

2 cups low-fat milk, heated to 110 degrees

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

2 cups bread flour

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

BEFORE YOU BEGIN: Unlike most popover batters, this one is smooth, not lumpy. High heat is crucial to the speedy, high rise of the popovers.

Milk Street Portuguese Favorites (Ep 504)

Portuguese Sponge Cake (Pão de Ló)
Start to finish: 45 minutes (25 minutes active), plus cooling
Servings: 8 to 10

Outside Lisbon, home cook Lourdes Varelia baked for us a classic Portuguese sponge cake called pão de ló. Its outward appearance was, to us, unusual—deeply browned, wrinkly and sunken, and the dessert was brought to the table in the parchment in which it was baked. And another surprise was in store: slicing revealed a layer of gooey, barely baked batter between the upper crust and the airy, golden-hued crumb. Sweet, eggy and tender, the unadorned cake was simple yet supremely satisfying. When attempting to re-create pão de ló at Milk Street, we turned to a recipe from “My Lisbon” by Nuno Mendes, who, in an uncommon twist, adds olive oil, giving the cake subtle fruity notes along with a little more richness.

America’s Test Kitchen: Spanish-Style Meatballs In Almond Sauce (Ep 2210)

 

SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH

TIME 1 ¼ HOURS

Sometimes fully cooked ground pork retains a slightly pink hue; trust your thermometer. These meatballs can be served as an appetizer with tooth- picks or as a main course alongside a vegetable and potatoes or rice. PICADA

¼    cup slivered almonds

1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces

2 tablespoons extra-virgin  olive  oil

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

2    garlic cloves, minced

 MEATBALLS

1 slice hearty white sandwich bread, torn into 1-inch pieces

1 large egg

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, divided

2   garlic cloves, minced

1   teaspoon table salt

½    teaspoon pepper

1     pound ground pork

1     tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

½    cup finely chopped onion

½     teaspoon paprika

1     cup chicken broth

½  cup dry white wine

¼     teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

1     teaspoon sherry vinegar

 

FOR THE PICADA: Process almonds in food processor until finely ground, about 20 Add bread and process until bread is finely ground, about 15 seconds. Transfer almond-bread mixture to 12-inch nonstick skillet. Add oil and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until mixture is golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.

America’s Test Kitchen: Cranberry Curd Tart with Almond Crust (Ep 2211)

Cranberry Curd Tart with Almond Crust

Serves 8

Total Time: 1 ½ hours, plus 4 hours resting

You’ll need a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom for this recipe. We strongly recommend weighing the almond flour and cornstarch for the crust. If preferred, you can use a stand mixer or handheld mixer to whip the cream in step 4. The tart crust will be firm if you serve the tart on the day that it’s made; if you prefer a more tender crust, make the tart through step 3 up to two days ahead. For tips on how to pipe the whipped cream into decorative patterns, see page 31.

Milk Street: Lebanese Baked Kafta with Potatoes and Tomatoes (Ep 505)

Lebanese Baked Kafta with Potatoes and Tomatoes

Start to finish: 1½ hours (1 hour active), plus cooling Servings: 4 to 6

PHOTO CREDIT: CONNIE MILLER OF CB CREATIVES

INGREDIENTS

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, not peeled, sliced into ¼-inch rounds 2 tablespoons plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1 pound ground lamb or 80 percent lean ground beef 1 medium yellow onion, halved and grated on the large holes of a box grater ½ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley ½ teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon 14½-ounce can crushed tomatoes 2 medium garlic cloves, minced 1 pound plum tomatoes, cored and sliced into ¼-inch rounds 1 small green bell pepper or Anaheim chili, stemmed, seeded and sliced into thin rings

INSTRUCTIONS

Heat the oven to 450°F with a rack in the middle position. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the potatoes with 1 tablespoon of oil and ¼ teaspoon salt. Distribute in a single layer and roast without stirring just until a skewer inserted into the potatoes meets no resistance, 10 to 13 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool slightly. Leave the oven on. While the potatoes cook, line a second baking sheet with kitchen parchment.

Milk Street Pork in Veracruz Sauce (Ep 501)

Pork in Veracruz Sauce (Puntas a la Veracruzana)

Start to finish: 50 minutes | Servings: 4

PHOTO CREDIT: CONNIE MILLER OF CB CREATIVES

INGREDIENTS

1 pound boneless pork loin chops (about 1 inch thick), sliced nothicker than ¼ inch on the diagonalKosher salt and ground black pepper3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil12 medium garlic cloves, peeled and chopped (about ¼ cup)½ medium white onion, finely chopped1½ pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped3 bay leaves2 jalapeño chilies, stemmed, seeded and chopped⅓ cup pimento-stuffed green olives, chopped2 tablespoons drained capers1 cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

INSTRUCTIONS

Toss the pork with salt and pepper. In a 12-inch skillet over high,heat the oil until barely smoking. Add the pork in an even layer andcook without stirring until well browned on the bottom, about 3minutes. Using tongs, transfer the pork to a plate and set aside. To the fat remaining in the skillet, add the garlic and stir off heat.Set the pan over medium and cook, stirring often, until the garlic islightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes; adjust the heat as needed if the garlicsizzles too vigorously.

America’s Test Kitchen Financiers (Ep 2126)

Financiers

MAKES 24 CAKES

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: For financiers with complex almond flavor and contrasting textures, we started by spraying a mini-muffin tin with baking spray with flour. The flour in the spray helped the sides of the cakes rise along with the center, preventing doming. We then stirred together almond flour, sugar, all-purpose flour, and egg whites. We opted for granulated sugar, which doesn’t totally dissolve in the egg whites, to ensure a pleasantly coarse texture. Once these ingredients were whisked together, it was just a matter of stirring in nutty browned butter and baking the cakes.

America’s Test Kitchen Ultimate Cream of Tomato Soup (Ep 2125)

Ultimate Cream of Tomato Soup

SERVES 3 TO 4 (MAKES ABOUT 5 1/2 CUPS)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: When developing our cream of tomato soup recipe, we found that good-quality, straight-from-the-can diced tomatoes were good, but not quite good enough. We got a more robust tomato flavor for our tomato soup recipe by using a technique known for intensifying flavor: caramelization. We roasted whole canned tomatoes, first sprinkling them with brown sugar to induce caramelization. The ultimate difference in flavor was extraordinary, and because the rest of the soup could be prepared while the tomatoes roasted, we were able to keep stovetop time down to 20 minutes. 2   (28 ounce) cans whole tomatoes (not packed in puree), drained, 3 cups juice reserved, tomatoes seeded

1½ tablespoons dark brown sugar

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 large shallots, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste Pinch ground allspice

2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

1¾ cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth

½ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons brandy or dry sherry cayenne pepper

Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees; line jelly-roll pan or rimmed cookie sheet with foil.

America’s Test Kitchen Cast Iron Pan Pizza (Ep 2122)

Cast Iron Pan Pizza

SERVES 4

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:  We  started with a simple stir-together dough of bread flour, salt, yeast, and warm water; the warm water jump-started yeast activity so that the crumb was open and light. Instead of kneading   the dough, we let it rest overnight in the refrigerator. During this rest, the dough’s gluten strengthened enough for the crust to support the toppings but still have a tender crumb. Baking the pie in a generously oiled cast-iron skillet “fried” the outside of the crust. We also moved the skillet to the stove for the last few minutes of cooking to crisp up the underside of the crust.

America’s Test Kitchen Butter Basted Fish Filets (Ep 2121)

Butter Basted Fish Filets with Garlic and Thyme

SERVES 2

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Butter basting, a technique that involves repeatedly spooning sizzling butter over food as it cooks, is great for mild, lean, flaky fish such as cod, haddock, or snapper. The butter helps cook the top of the fillet as the skillet heats the bottom, allowing you to flip the fish only once and early in the cooking process—before the flesh has become too fragile—so it stays intact. Throughout the process, the nutty, aromatic butter, which we enhanced with thyme sprigs and crushed garlic cloves, bathed the mild fish in savory flavor. We alternated basting with direct- heat cooking on the burner, taking the temperature of the fish so we knew exactly when the fillets were done.  

2 (6 ounces) skinless cod fillets, about 1 inch thick

½ teaspoon kosher salt

⅛ teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

2 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

4 sprigs fresh thyme Lemon wedges

Pat all sides of fillets dry with paper towels.

America’s Test Kitchen Smashed Burgers (Ep 2116)

Smashed Burgers

SERVES 2

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Smashed burgers share the same thin, verging- on-well-done profile and all-American array of condiments as typical fast-food burgers, but their big selling point is an ultrabrown, crispy crust. We used commercial ground beef instead of grinding our own because the former is ground finer and thus exposes more myosin, a sticky meat protein that helps the patties hold together when they are smashed. Using a small saucepan to press straight down on the meat ensured that it spread and stuck uniformly to the skillet (instead of shrinking as it cooked), which helped guarantee deep browning. We made two smaller patties at a time instead of one larger one because they fit nicely inside a burger bun. Sandwiching an ultramelty slice of Kraft American cheese between the two patties helped the cheese melt thoroughly and seep into the meat almost like a rich, salty cheese sauce would.

Simply Ming Okonomiyake/Japanese Pizza

Simply Ming Seafood Okonomiyaki (Ep 1802)

This week on Simply Ming, Chef Tsai cooks up two versions of Okonomiyaki/Japanese Pizza. First a delicious Smoked Salmon, Crispy Fennel, Okonomiyake, and then a Vegan Okonomiyake made with rice flour, shiitake mushrooms, cabbage and seasoned with garlic and fresh ginger. To cool things down, he mixes a refreshing Cucumber-Mint Saketini for himself, and a Cucumber-Mint Spritzer for Henry.  
Simply Ming @Home
Cucumber-Mint Saketini
Cucumber-Mint Spritzer
Seafood Okonomiyaki (Japanese Pizza)
Gluten-Free Vegan Okonomiyaki
By Ming Tsai
Cucumber-Mint Saketini

Ingredient List

2 ounces Sake

1 ounce vodka

3 mint leaves and 1 for garnish

2 slices and some julienne English cucumbers

 

Pre-chill a martini glass. 
In a shaker filled with ice, add the sake, vodka and cucumber slices.  Shake. Strain in chilled martini glass.  Garnish with cucumber julienne.

America’s Test Kitchen Pan Bagnat (Ep 2114)

Pan Bagnat

SERVES 4 TO 6

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Our version of pan bagnat, a classic Provençal sandwich that shares many of the same ingredients as salade niçoise, features a crusty baguette packed with high-quality jarred tuna, olives, capers, tomatoes, hard-cooked eggs, fresh herbs, and a mustardy vinaigrette. We used a large baguette, which offered enough surface area to accommodate the filling, and removed the inner crumb from the bottom half of the loaf to create a trough that provided more space. Processing the olives, capers, anchovies, and herbs into a coarse “salad” helped those components hold together, and applying the salad in two layers in the sandwich distributed its assertive flavors. To control the bread’s moisture absorption, we brushed the cut surfaces with olive oil, which helped waterproof it. Stirring the vinaigrette into the olive salad thickened the dressing so that it didn’t oversaturate the crumb, and we also thoroughly drained the tuna and tomato slices to remove much of their liquid.

Milk Street Greece Every Day (Ep 307)

Greek White Bean Soup (Fasolada)
Start to finish: 1 hour 30 minutes | Servings: 6

Dried cannellini beans that are soaked before cooking yield a full-flavored soup and creamy, silky-textured beans. To soak the beans, in a large bowl stir together 2 quarts water and 1 tablespoon kosher salt. Add the beans, let soak at room temperature for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours, then drain well. Canned beans work in a pinch; see instructions below. We do as we were taught in Greece and use extra-virgin olive oil to give the soup a little body and fruity, peppery richness throughout; vigorously whisking in a few tablespoons before serving, rather than just drizzling it on, does the trick. Refrigerate leftovers in an airtight container for up to two days; reheat in a saucepan over low, adding water as needed to thin the consistency.

Milk Street Chicken Around the World (Ep 306)

Filipino Chicken Adobo with Coconut Broth
Start to finish: 1 hour 45 minutes | Servings: 4

A hefty dose of rice vinegar blended with soy sauce and aromatics gave this Filipino dish its characteristic bright flavor and made for a potent marinade. The coconut milk tended to burn under the broiler, so we added it toward the end. If you can’t find bird’s eye chilies (sometimes called Thai chilies), any small chili will do. Stir the coconut milk thoroughly before measuring it. Look for chicken thighs that are uniform in size; if some are smaller than others, begin to check them early and remove them as they come up to temperature.

Milk Street The Secrets of Stir-Fry (Ep 305)

Vietnamese Shaking Beef (Bò Lúc Lắc)
Start to finish: 30 minutes | Servings: 4

The name of this Vietnamese dish refers to the way cooks shake the pan while the beef cooks. We, however, prefer to minimize the meat’s movement so the pieces achieve a nice dark, flavor-building sear. Sirloin tips (also called flap meat) or tri-tip are excellent cuts for this recipe—both are meaty, tender and reasonably priced (many recipes for shaking beef call for pricier beef tenderloin). If you can find baby watercress, use a 4-ounce container in place of the regular watercress; baby cress has a particularly peppery bite that pairs well with the beef. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.

Milk Street Cake and Scones (Ep 423)

Savory Kale and Two-Cheese Scones
Start to finish: 1¼ hours (40 minutes active), plus cooling
Makes 12 large scones
When standard breakfast pastries are too sugary, bake a batch of these flavorful savory scones. This recipe is our adaptation of the hearty kale and cheese scones created by of Briana Holt, of Tandem Coffee + Bakery in Portland, Maine. Dried currants and a small amount of sugar in the dough complement the minerally, vegetal notes of the kale and counterbalance the saltiness of the cheddar and pecorino, while a good dose of black pepper adds an undercurrent of spiciness. Either lacinato kale (also called dinosaur or Tuscan kale) or curly kale will work; you will need an average-sized bunch to obtain the amount of chopped stemmed leaves for the recipe. Don’t allow the buttermilk and butter to lose their chill before use.

Milk Street Italian the Right Way (Ep 303)

Risotto with Fresh Herbs
Start to finish: 25 minutes | Servings: 4

Medium-grain Italian rice has the ideal starch content for achieving the rich, creamy consistency that is the hallmark of risotto. Arborio rice is the most common choice for risotto in the U.S., but cooks in Milan—and at Milk Street—preferred carnaroli. We found that the grains better retained their structure and resisted overcooking. With careful cooking, however, Arborio will yield delicious results. A quick six-ingredient homemade vegetable broth is the best cooking liquid for this risotto; its fresh, clean flavor won’t compete with the other ingredients.

Milk Street The Joy of Cooking Lebanon (Ep 302)

Flatbread (Pizza) Dough
Start to finish: 1 1/2 hours (30 minutes active) | Makes two 12-inch flatbreads

This versatile dough is a breeze to make in a food processor and can used for pizzas with various toppings or Middle Eastern–style flatbreads. The Greek yogurt makes a supple dough that’s easy to work with and that bakes up with a chewy-soft crumb and subtle richness. For convenience, the dough can be made a day in advance. After dividing the dough in half and forming each piece into a round, place each portion in a quart-size zip-close bag that’s been misted with cooking spray, seal well and refrigerate overnight. Allow the dough to come to room temperature before shaping.

Milk Street The Oaxacan Kitchen (Ep 301)

Carnitas
Start to finish: 4 hours (45 minutes active) | Servings: 4 to 6

Authentic Mexican carnitas involve slowcooking pork in lard until fall-apart tender, then increasing the heat so the meat fries and crisps. The fried pork then is broken into smaller pieces for eating. In the U.S., however, carnitas usually is made by simmering pork in liquid, then shredding the meat. The result is moist and tender, but lacks intense porkiness as well the crisping traditional to carnitas. Our method melds the two techniques.

Milk Street Argentina Favorites (Ep 422)

Oven-Perfect Strip Steak with Chimichurri
Start to finish: 1 1/4 hours (15 minutes active), plus refrigeration
Servings: 4 to 6
This recipe uses the gentle, controlled heat of the oven to replicate the “reverse sear” technique Argentinians use when grilling beef. Rather than start the steak over high heat to brown, then finish over low heat, the steaks start in a cool oven, then finish with a quick sear in either a blistering-hot cast-iron skillet or on a grill. The result is steak with a deep, flavorful crust that’s evenly cooked throughout, not overdone at the surface and just-right at only the core. We call for strip steaks (also called strip loin or New York strip), but bone-in or boneless ribeyes work well, too, as long they’re 1½ to 2 inches thick. We learned to season cuts of beef with nutmeg at La Carbrera in Buenos Aires; the spice doesn’t leave a distinct flavor of its own but rather enhances the steaks’ meatiness and smoky notes.

Lidia Bastianich Breakfast Risotto

Lidia Celebrates America: A Salute to First Responders Breakfast Risotto

Breakfast Risotto

Risotto di Colazione

 

 

Risotto for breakfast (or brunch)? Why not? I also like to make a simple risotto like this during the week as these are all ingredients I have on hand in my pantry and refrigerator. Any leftovers would be a good base for Risotto Cakes.  

Serves 4 to 6

 

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

4 ounces slab bacon, cut into lardons

1 small onion, chopped

1 red bell pepper, chopped

1 ½ cups arborio or other Italian short grain rice

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup dry white wine

6 to 7 cups hot chicken stock or water

2 large eggs

3 scallions, chopped

1/2 cup freshly grated Grana Padano

 

You will need:

large skillet

small saucepan

whisk

 

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat.