Milk Street Bakes! (Ep 406)
Deep-Dish Quiche with Mushrooms, Bacon and Gruyère
Start to finish: 1½ active), plus cooling
Servings: 8 to 10
At Le Pichet, a French brasserie in Seattle, Washington, we rekindled our love for quiche. This recipe is based on the restaurant’s formula for creating a quiche that’s tall and creamy, yet light and richly flavored. The key is crème fraîche in addition to the heavy cream, along with just the right number of eggs. Baking the quiche on a hot baking steel (or baking stone) obviates the need to prebake the crust (a hassle of most quiche recipes), as the heat from the steel helps brown the bottom crust, thereby staving off sogginess. We’re fond of buttery homemade pastry, but if you wish to take a shortcut, stack two refrigerated pie crusts on top of each other, then fold into quarters.
Press the dough layers together, shape into a 6-inch disk, wrap tightly in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Roll out the dough and line the tart pan or pie plate as you would if using the homemade pastry for deep-dish quiche.
Don’t slice the quiche while it’s warm. Allow it to cool to room temperature or, better yet, refrigerate it, covered, for at least six hours or up to two days before slicing. If refrigerated, slice it while chilled, then bring to room temperature before serving. If you prefer to serve it warm, place individual slices on a parchment-lined baking sheet and heat in a 450°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes.
- 6 large eggs
- 1 cup crème fraîche
- 1½ cups heavy cream
- ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
- ⅛ teaspoon grated nutmeg
- Kosher salt and ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons salted butter
- 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
- 12 ounces cremini mushrooms, trimmed, halved and thinly sliced
- ½ cup dry white wine
- All-purpose flour, for dusting
- Pastry for deep-dish quiche, shaped into a disk and chilled (recipe follows; see note for using purchased dough)
- 6 ounces sliced Canadian bacon, cut into ¼-inch pieces
- 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon
- 6 ounces Gruyère cheese, shredded (1½ cups)
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs. Add the crème fraîche and whisk until thoroughly combined. Add the cream, cayenne, nutmeg and ½ teaspoon each salt and black pepper, then whisk until well blended. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
In a nonstick 12-inch skillet over medium-high, melt the butter. Add the onion, mushrooms and ¾ teaspoon salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid released by the mushrooms has evaporated, the onion is softened and the mixture browns, 12 to 15 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until fully evaporated, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.
Lightly flour the counter. Mist a 9-inch-round by 2-inch-deep tart pan with a removable bottom or a deep-dish glass pie plate with cooking spray. Unwrap the pastry disk and set it on the floured surface. If the dough is too firm to roll, let it stand for 10 to 20 minutes. Dust the surface of the dough with flour and, using a rolling pin, roll it to a 14-inch round about ⅛ inch thick, rotating often and dusting with flour as needed to prevent sticking.
Fold the dough round in half, then in half again, forming a wedge. Transfer the dough to the tart pan or pie plate, positioning the tip of the wedge at the center. Unfold the dough, then carefully ease it into the corners and up the sides of the pan or plate, allowing the excess to extend past the edge. If using a tart pan, roll the rolling pin across the top of the pan to trim off the excess dough, then set the pan on a large plate (so the pan is easier to handle); if using a pie plate, fold and crimp the edges of the dough. Refrigerate uncovered until the dough is firm, about 1 hour. Heat the oven to 450°F with a baking steel or stone on the middle rack.
Stir the bacon and tarragon into the cooled mushroom mixture. Distribute the mixture evenly in the chilled pastry, then top with the cheese. Set the tart pan or pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet. Slowly pour in the egg-cream mixture, allowing it to seep in; the pan will be very full. Carefully slide the baking sheet onto the hot baking steel, then immediately reduce the oven to 350°F. Bake until the quiche jiggles slightly at only the center, 55 to 65 minutes (the center should reach 165°F to 170°F); lay a sheet of foil over the quiche if the surface browns too much.
Transfer the quiche from the baking sheet directly to a wire rack and cool until barely warm to the touch, about 2 hours. If you’ve used a tart pan, carefully remove the outer ring, then return the quiche (still on the pan bottom) to the rack. Cool completely before cutting into wedges.
Deep-Dish Quiche with Swiss Chard, Roasted Peppers and Cheddar
Follow the recipe to mix and refrigerate the egg-cream mixture. In a nonstick 12-inch skillet over medium, melt 1 tablespoon salted butter. Add 1 bunch Swiss chard (both stems and leaves, chopped) and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid released has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and cool, then wrap in a kitchen towel and squeeze to remove excess moisture. In the same pan over medium, melt 2 tablespoons salted butter. Add 1 medium yellow onion (chopped) and 1 teaspoon kosher salt, then cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in
½ cup roasted red peppers (patted dry and chopped), 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano and the chard. Cook, stirring, until the oregano is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate and cool completely. Meanwhile, follow the recipe to prepare the pastry and heat the oven and baking steel. Distribute the chard mixture evenly in the chilled pastry, then top with 6 ounces shredded extra- sharp cheddar cheese (1½ cups) and set the pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Continue with the recipe to pour in the egg-cream mixture and bake and cool the quiche.
Pastry for Deep-Dish Quiche
Start to finish: 2½ hours (25 minutes active)
Makes one 9-inch-round deep-dish pastry
We highly recommend using a 9-inch-round and 2-inch-deep metal tart pan with fluted sides and a removable bottom. The metal is a good conductor of heat so the crust browns nicely, even without prebaking. A deep-dish glass pie plate (such as Pyrex) will get the job done, but the crust will not brown not crisp as well.
Don’t forget to freeze the flour-butter mixture for 10 minutes before processing. This helps the ingredients remain cold as they’re mixed so the dough is easier to handle and the crust bakes up tender. But if the flour-butter mixture is in the freezer for longer than 10 minutes, the butter will be extra-firm, so the processing time will likely need to be extended.
- 245 grams (1¾ cups plus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour
- 1½ teaspoons kosher salt
- 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) cold salted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes
- 5 tablespoons ice water
INSTRUCTIONS In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Add the butter and toss, separating any stuck-together cubes, until evenly coated. Freeze uncovered for 10 minutes.
Transfer the chilled flour-butter mixture to a food processor. Pulse until the butter chunks are about the size of peas, 10 to 12 pulses. Add the water and process until the mixture forms clumps but does not come together in a ball, 20 to 25 seconds.
Turn the dough out onto the counter and press it into a disk about 6 inches wide. Wrap tightly in plastic, smoothing out any ragged edges. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
Cranberry and Candied Ginger Buckle
Start to finis inutes active), plus cooling
A buckle is a fruit-studded cake with a buttery crumb topping; it’s a great breakfast treat, an excellent midday sweet alongside tea or coffee or a casual, not-too-heavy after-dinner dessert. Our version is loosely based on a recipe in “Rustic Fruit Desserts” by Cory Schreiber and Julie Richardson. Instead of making an entirely separate crumb topping, we remove a portion of the flour-sugar-butter mixture that is the base of the cake, then mix in a few additional ingredients to create a mixture that bakes up with the just the right crumby texture. Covered tightly, leftovers keep for up to three days at room temperature
Don’t forget to thaw the cranberries if using frozen. If the fruits are freezer-cold, they will cause the batter to stiffen, which will make mixing difficult.
- 390 g (3 cups) all-purpose flour, plus more for pan
- 214 g (1 cup) white sugar
- 1 tablespoon baking powder
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon kosher salt
- 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks), plus 2 tablespoons salted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes and chilled, reserved separately
- 42 grams (3 tablespoons) packed dark brown sugar
- 40 grams (⅓ cup) sliced almonds
- 3 large eggs
- 1 cup sour cream
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
- 12-ounce bag fresh or thawed frozen cranberries (3 cups)
- 85 grams (½ cup) finely chopped candied ginger
- Powdered sugar, to serve (optional)
Heat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9- by-13-inch baking pan with cooking spray, dust evenly with flour, then tap out the excess.
In a food processor, combine the flour, white sugar, baking powder, cinnamon and salt. Pulse until well combined, 6 to 8 pulses. Scatter the 12 tablespoons butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs, about 20 pulses. Transfer to a large bowl, then measure out 165 grams (1 cup) of the mixture and return it to the food processor. To the food processor, add the brown sugar, almonds and remaining 2 tablespoons butter, then pulse until the mixture begins to clump and resembles wet sand, about 20 pulses; transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.
In another medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, sour cream and vanilla. Pour into the large bowl of flour-butter mixture and fold the batter with a silicone spatula until only a few streaks of flour remain. Add the cranberries and candied ginger, then fold until evenly distributed; the batter will be thick. Transfer to the prepared pan and spread in an even layer.
Using your hands, squeeze the almond-flour mixture into rough ½- inch clumps, then scatter evenly over the batter in the pan. Bake until the topping is golden brown and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool in the pan on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing. Dust with powdered sugar just before serving, if desired.
Sweet Fresh Corn Pudding
Start to finish: 1 hour (40 minutes active) | Servings: 6
This is our adaptation of a recipe from Vivian Howard's “Deep Run Roots” that transforms sweet summer corn into a light, elegant dessert. Fresh corn is best, as the kernels are tender and succulent; you'll need three ears to yield the 2 cups kernels. Frozen corn kernels work, too, but make sure to fully thaw them, then pat dry with paper towels to remove excess moisture. For convenience, the unbaked, sugar-sprinkled soufflés can be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 2 hours before baking. Or if you don't plan to serve all six, extras can be covered tightly with plastic wrap then foil and frozen for up to a week. To bake from frozen; simply uncover (do not thaw), set on a baking sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes; they may rise slightly less than when baked fresh, but still will be delicious. Serve hot from the oven with fresh blackberries, raspberries and/or blueberries.
Don't forget to thoroughly clean the bowl and beaters you use to whip the egg whites. Any residual oils will prevent the whites from attaining the proper airiness. Don't open the oven during baking; this will cause the soufflés to deflate.
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, cut into 8 pieces, plus more for ramekins
- 135 grams (½ cup plus 2 tablespoons) white sugar, divided, plus more for ramekins
- 4 teaspoons grated lemon zest, divided
- 65 grams (½ cup) all-purpose flour
- 2 cups corn kernels
- 1 cup heavy cream
- ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
- 2 large eggs, separated, plus 2 large egg whites, room temperature
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- Powdered sugar, to serve (optional)
Heat the oven to 400°F with a rack in the middle position. Generously butter six 6-ounce ramekins. Sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon sugar and turn to coat, then tap out the excess. Place the ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet; set aside.
In a small bowl, combine 27 grams (2 tablespoons) white sugar with 1 teaspoon of lemon zest. Using your fingers, work the zest and the sugar together, then set aside.
In a large saucepan, whisk together the flour and 54 grams (¼ cup) of the white sugar. In a blender, combine the corn, cream and salt, then puree just until smooth, about 15 seconds. Whisk the puree into the flour mixture, then set the pan over medium and cook, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula, until the mixture reaches a boil and forms a thick, shiny paste, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat, then stir in the butter 2 tablespoons at a time until fully incorporated.
Transfer to a large bowl and cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the egg yolks, the remaining 3 teaspoons zest and the vanilla.
In a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites on medium-high until light and foamy. With the mixer running, slowly add the remaining 54 grams (¼ cup) white sugar, then continue to whip until the whites hold soft peaks when the whisk is lifted, 1 to 2 minutes; do not overwhip. Using a silicone spatula, fold about a quarter of the whites into the corn mixture until just a few streaks remain. Gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care not to deflate them.
Divide the mixture evenly among the prepared ramekins. Run the tip of your thumb along the inside edge of each ramekin to create a small channel; this gives the soufflés better rise. Sprinkle with the lemon sugar, dividing it evenly.
Bake the soufflés until golden brown and well risen, 20 to 22 minutes; they should jiggle slightly when the baking sheet is gently shaken. Do not open the oven door during baking. Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack. Dust the soufflés with powdered sugar (if using) and serve right away.
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