Pati’s Mexican Table – Mocorito, The Land of Chilorio (809)

Sinaloa Style Chilorio
Makes 10-12 servings

 

 

INGREDIENTS

4 pounds boneless pork shoulder or butt, fat on, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided
5 cups water
4 ounces (about 14 to 15) guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 bay leaves
8 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon freshly ground back pepper
Pinch ground cumin
1/4 cup white distilled vinegar
1 cup finely chopped white onion
1/2 pound (about 3) fresh Anaheim chiles, seeded and chopped
4 ripe Roma tomatoes, cored and chopped

TO PREPARE

Preheat a large heavy casserole over medium-high heat. Once hot, add the pork pieces, sprinkle 1 teaspoon salt, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring as it starts to brown. Reduce heat to medium, pour in 5 cups of water, cover and cook for another hour and a half. Meanwhile, place the guajillo chiles, bay leaves, and garlic in a medium pot, cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes until the chiles are completely rehydrated and plumped up.

America’s Test Kitchen Beef Top Loin Roast with Potatoes (Ep 2017)

Beef Top Loin Roast with Potatoes
Serves 8-10

Top loin roast is also known as strip roast. Use potatoes that are about 1½ inches in diameter and at least 4 inches long. The browned surfaces of the potatoes are very delicate; take care when flipping the potatoes in step 7. To make flipping easier, flip two potatoes and remove them from the pan to create space before flipping the rest. INGREDIENTS

1 (5- to 6-pound) boneless top loin roast
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
2 teaspoons pepper, divided
5 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled
¼ cup vegetable oil
5 cups beef broth
6 sprigs fresh thyme
2 small sprigs fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin
4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed and peeled

INSTRUCTIONS
1.

Milk Street Mexico Every Single Day (Ep 105)

Shrimp in Chipotle Sauce (Camarones Enchipotlados)
Start to finish: 25 minutes
Servings: 4

THE FLAVOR AND TEXTURE of fresh tomatoes were better than canned for the sauce. The shrimp spend just seconds in the pan and won’t be fully cooked; they finish later off the heat. The shrimp made wonderful tacos. To warm tortillas, wrap a stack in foil and place it in a 200ºF oven. INGREDIENTS

4 vine-ripened tomatoes (1¼ pounds), quartered
4 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce and the sauce clinging to them
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
¼ cup olive oil
1½ pounds extra-large raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails removed and patted dry
¼ cup lime juice
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
½ teaspoon dried oregano
¼ cup dry white wine
1/2 cup chopped cilantro, plus extra to serve
Eight 6-inch corn tortillas, warmed
Avocado, sour cream and lime wedges, to serve

INSTRUCTIONS
In a food processor, pulse the tomatoes, the chilies and any sauce coating them, and 3/4 teaspoon salt until mostly smooth, 1 minute.

America’s Test Kitchen Everyday French Toast (Ep 2016)

Everyday French Toast
Serves 4

We developed this recipe to work with presliced supermarket bread that measures 4 by 6 inches and is ¾ inch thick. Be sure to use vegetable oil spray here; it contains lecithin, which ensures that the oil stays well distributed, preventing the toast from sticking. Top with maple syrup or confectioners’ sugar, if desired. INGREDIENTS

3 large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
2 teaspoons packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon table salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 cup milk
8 slices hearty white sandwich bread

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Adjust 1 oven rack to lowest position and second rack 5 to 6 inches from broiler element.

Milk Street Tahini Rules! (Ep 104)

Turkish Meatballs with Lime- Yogurt Sauce
Meatballs: Start to finish – 20 minutes, plus cooling; Serves 6

Lime-Yogurt Sauce Start to finish – 10 minutes; Makes 1½ cups

THESE CRISP, PATTY-SHAPED meatballs developed a flavorful crust from pan-frying. This recipe also works with a blend of lamb and beef. We heated the spic- es, shallots and garlic in oil in the microwave to draw out their flavors. We loved the meatballs stuffed into pita pockets with sliced tomato, cucumber, red onion and flat-leaf parsley. Tangy yogurt sauce spiked with lime juice and cayenne made for a bright counterpart.

America’s Test Kitchen Thai Hot and Sour Soup with Shrimp and Noodles (Guay Tiew Tom Yum Goong) (Ep 2015)

Thai Hot and Sour Soup with Shrimp and Noodles (Guay Tiew Tom Yum Goong)
Serves 4-6

Whole shrimp are traditional in this soup, but you can halve them crosswise before cooking to make them easier to eat. If galangal is unavailable, substitute fresh ginger. Makrut lime leaves add a lot to this soup. If you can’t find them, substitute three 3-inch strips each of lemon zest and lime zest. We prefer vermicelli made from 100 percent rice flour to varieties that include a secondary starch such as cornstarch.

Milk Street From Thailand With Love (Ep 103)

Thai Fried Rice

WE LIKED THE AROMATIC sweet flavor of jasmine rice, but long-grain white or basmati works, too. A good Thai fish sauce was essential: at Milk Street we use Red Boat. Andy Ricker uses pork belly, but that can be hard to find in the U.S. Pancetta worked well as a substitute. It has the right amount of salt and fat. Plain bacon will do the job, too, but avoid smoked bacon.

Pati’s Mexican Table – El Fuerte, Magic Town (806)

Lobster Chilaquiles
Makes 4 servings

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS

For the salsa:

2 to 3 dried morita or chipotle chiles
1 1/2 pounds about 6 ripe Roma tomatoes
1 1/2 pounds about 12 tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1/2 white onion, cut into large pieces
2 to 3 fresh jalapeños, stemmed
3 unpeeled garlic cloves
1 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt, or to taste
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

For the tortilla chips:

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
12 corn tortillas, cut into triangles
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, or to taste

For the lobsters:

4 1- and-a-quarter to 1-and-a-half pound live lobsters, or you can substitute thawed lobster tails

For the toppings:

1 cup crumbled queso fresco
1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
Mexican crema, to taste

TO PREPARE

To make the salsa:

Place the morita chiles in a small bowl, cover with hot water, and let them sit and soften for at least 10 minutes. Place the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion chunks, jalapeños, and unpeeled garlic cloves on an aluminum foil lined baking sheet. Place under the broiler and roast 12 to 15 minutes, flipping a couple times in between, until the skin of tomatoes and tomatillos has completely blistered and charred, they seem very mushy, and their juices have started to come out. The garlic cloves and chiles must also have blackened and charred. Remove from the broiler and let cool.

America’s Test Kitchen Classic Sloppy Joes (Ep 2014)

Classic Sloppy Joes
Serves 4

Tossing the beef with baking soda in step 1 helps keep it tender and juicy; adding baking soda to the skillet with the onion in step 2 helps the onion break down. You may substitute 90 percent lean ground beef in this recipe, but the cooked mixture will be a bit less tender. Serve the Sloppy Joes with pickle chips, if desired.  

 
INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons water, divided
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon baking soda, divided
1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef
½ teaspoon plus ⅛ teaspoon table salt, divided
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
½ onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons packed brown sugar, plus extra for seasoning
2 teaspoons paprika
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¼ cup tomato paste
⅓ cup ketchup
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon cornstarch
4 hamburger buns

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Combine 1 tablespoon water and ½ teaspoon baking soda in small bowl.

Milk Street The New Baking (Ep 102)

Chocolate, Prune and Rum Cake
Start to finish: 1 hour and 20 minutes (30 minutes active), plus cooling
Servings: 12

CLAIRE PTAK’S chocolate, prune and whiskey cake is deliciously gooey at the center. A ratio of 3:1 chocolate to butter—as well as 8 ounces of chopped pitted prunes—got us the same results. We preferred bar chocolates with 60 to 70 percent cacao (especially the Ghirardelli and Guittard brands) to chocolate chips, which contain stabilizers that changed the cake’s texture. Ptak uses almond flour—not an uncommon ingredient in flourless chocolate cakes like this, but certainly not a common ingredient in American homes. We reworked the cake a bit to leave it out and found the results just as good.

Pati’s Mexican Table – A Taste of Mazatlan (805)

Milanesa Torta with Matador Guacamole and Melty Cheese
Makes 4 tortas

 

 

INGREDIENTS

Vegetable oil, for frying
4 boneless skinless chicken breasts, pounded to 1/4-inch thickness
Kosher or sea salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup all-purpose flour
3 eggs
A splash of milk
2 cups crushed butter crackers
8 to 10 dried chiltepín chiles, crushed (or substitute 3 to 4 chiles de árbol)
1 cup mayonnaise
2 cups grated Oaxaca cheese
1/2 cup crumbled Cotija cheese
4 bolillo or telera rolls, split in half with insides scooped out
2 cups baby arugula
1 batch Matador Guacamole
1/4 cup soy and lime mixture from the Matador Guacamole

TO PREPARE

Preheat the oven to 450°F. In a large skillet over medium heat, add 1/2-inch of vegetable oil and heat until very hot but not smoking, for at least 4 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Make a breading station using three shallow dishes: place the flour in one, whisk the eggs with a splash of milk in another, and mix the cracker crumbs with salt, pepper and the crushed chiles in the third one. One by one, dredge the chicken breasts in the flour, then pass through the egg mixture, and then coat well with the cracker crumbs mixture, pressing it onto the chicken as you do.

America’s Test Kitchen Sous Vide Crème Brûlée (Ep 2013)

Sous Vide Crème Brûlée
Serves 4

While sous vide is not the answer for most baked desserts, it most definitely is when it comes to custard. Conventional custard recipes require care and attention with temperature-sensitive steps like tempering eggs with the hot dairy to avoid curdling and arranging a water bath in the oven. The precise temperature control of sous vide cooking makes custardy desserts like crème brûlée easier to execute. We whisked the base together, portioned it into Mason jars, and circulated for one hour. It was that easy.

Milk Street Home Cooking, Chinese Style (Ep 101)

Chinese White Cooked Chicken with Ginger-Soy Dressing
Start to finish: 2 hours (30 minutes active)
Serves: 4

WE TRIED THE traditional Chinese technique of plunging the cooked chicken into an ice bath after poaching — which is said to tighten the skin, but found little advantage. (The skin is fine to eat as is, or you can remove it before serving.) We also tried “flashing” the scallions and ginger with hot oil before making the dressing, but we liked the brightness of the raw aromatics better. We did prefer cutting the saltiness and potency of the dressing with some of the poaching liquid. INGREDIENTS
For the chicken and poaching broth:

3½- to 4-pound chicken, giblets discarded
1 bunch cilantro
6 scallions, trimmed and halved crosswise
4½ quarts water
2 cups dry sherry or mirin
4-inch piece fresh ginger, cut into 4 pieces and smashed 3 tablespoons kosher salt

For the dressing:

4 scallions, thinly sliced on bias
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable or other neutral oil
4 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
½ teaspoon white sugar
½ pound (½ small head) napa or savoy cabbage, thinly sliced (4 cups) Cooked white rice, to serve

INSTRUCTIONS
Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and let sit at room temperature while making the broth. Reserving a few sprigs for garnish if desired, cut the cilantro bunch in half crosswise, separating the stems and leaves.

Pati’s Mexican Table – Lost Mochis, Street Taco Favorites (804)

Campechano Tacos with Street Style Salsa
Makes 8 Tacos

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds flank steak, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 garlic cloves
1/2 white onion
3 bay leaves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 pound longaniza, casings removed, chopped (or substitute Mexican chorizo)
1/2 pound pork chicharrón, crumbled or chopped into small pieces
8 corn tortillas, store-bought or homemade
1 cup finely chopped white onion, for garnish
1 cup chopped cilantro leaves, for garnish
Salsa Callejera

TO PREPARE

Place the meat, garlic, onion, bay leaves, peppercorns, and a teaspoon of salt in a large casserole or pot. Cover generously with water and place over high heat. Once it comes to a simmer, reduce heat to medium low, remove any foam that may have risen to the top, cover, and cook for an hour and a half until the meat is completely tender and falling apart. Turn off heat and set aside. Once cool enough to handle, remove the meat with a slotted spoon and chop into small pieces.

America’s Test Kitchen Meat Ravioli with Quick Tomato Sauce (Ep 2012)

Meat Ravioli with Quick Tomato Sauce
Serves 4-6

If using King Arthur All-Purpose Flour, which is higher in protein, increase the number of egg yolks to seven. To ensure the proper dough texture, it’s important to use large eggs and to weigh the flour if possible. The longer the dough rests in step 2, the easier it will be to roll out. When rolling out the dough, don’t add too much flour; it can cause excessive snapback. Though a pasta machine is not necessary, you may use one if you like.

Milk Street The New Australia (Ep 323)

Miso-Gochujang Pulled Pork
Start to finish: 4 hours (1 hour active) | Servings: 6 to 8

This Asian-inflected take on barbecue pulled pork was inspired by the “Pigalicious” wrap served at Bird & Ewe in Sydney. White miso and gochujang provide deep, savory-sweet notes and lots of complex flavor to oven- braised pork butt. Miso usually is sold in the refrigerator case; gochujang, or Korean red pepper paste, does not require refrigeration until the container is opened. Both are available in well-stocked supermarkets and Asian grocery stores. The pork cooks for about three hours; use this time to prep and cook the miso-seasoned onions that are combined with the meat after shredding.

Pati’s Mexican Table – South by South of the Border with Vivian Howard (803)

Pierna de Cerdo Adobada
Adobo Pork Butt
8 Servings

 

 

INGREDIENTS

For the marinade:

1/2 pound ripe Roma tomatoes
1 white onion, quartered
6 unpeeled garlic cloves
2 guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons grated piloncillo or dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For the meat:

1 4- to 5- pound pork butt or shoulder, bone in
3 bay leaves

TO PREPARE

To make the marinade:

Put the tomatoes, onion and garlic on a baking sheet lined with foil. Place under the broiler for about 10 minutes until charred, mushy, and soft, flipping once halfway through. Remove from the oven and once cool enough to handle, peel the garlic cloves. (Alternatively, you can char and toast on a preheated comal or skillet set over medium-low heat.)

Place tomatoes, peeled garlic and onion in the jar of a blender. Toast the guajillo and ancho chiles on a heated comal or skillet for about a minute, flipping a few times, until lightly browned and fragrant.

America’s Test Kitchen Roast Boneless Leg of Lamb with Garlic, Herb, and Bread Crumb Crust (Ep 2011)

Roast Boneless Leg of Lamb with Garlic, Herb, and Bread Crumb Crust
Serves 4-6

We wanted a crisp crust and perfectly cooked interior for our boneless leg of lamb recipe. We applied a simple rub of aromatics to enhance but not overpower the flavor of the lamb. For crunch and even more flavor, we added a savory crumb crust. We skipped slow-roasting for our leg of lamb recipe, which works for beef but turns lamb to mush. Instead, we roasted the lamb at a high temperature, first searing the meat on the stove and then finishing in the oven at 375 degrees.

Milk Street From Morocco to Egypt (Ep 322)

Lemon-Saffron Chicken (Tangia)
Start to finish: 1 hour | Servings: 4

Tangia—which originates in Marrakech and often is slow-cooked in the community wood-fired ovens that heat bathhouses— traditionally is made with lamb. For a more approachable version, we used boneless, skinless chicken thighs, which have a similar richness. In Morocco, preserved lemons lend a gentle acidity, lightening the richness. For an easier version, we get similar flavor from lemon zest and juice—as well as chopped green olives for brininess—added at the end of cooking. Serve with warmed, halved pita bread for scooping up the meat and thickened sauce.

Pati’s Mexican Table – Altata, Hidden Gem by the Sea of Cortez (802)

Chipotle Oyster Soup
Makes 6 servings

 

 

 

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 cups chopped white onion
1 1/2 cups finely chopped celery, divided
1 1/2 cups finely chopped carrot, divided
1 1/2 cups finely chopped leeks, divided
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped or pressed
2 tablespoons about 4 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce and their sauce, chopped, or to taste
1 chile de arbol, stemmed and chopped, seeds included
1 1/2 pounds about 6 Roma tomatoes, roasted and charred, chopped
1 pound about 12 to 15 shucked oysters and their juices
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon dried oregano
5 cups shrimp or seafood broth, or substitute vegetable or chicken broth
Chopped cilantro leaves, for garnish
Quartered limes, to serve

TO PREPARE

In a large casserole or soup pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Once hot add the onion and cook for 5 to 6 minutes until softened. Incorporate 1 cup each of the celery, carrot, and leeks (reserving half a cup of each for later use), cook for 3 to 4 minutes until the vegetables have wilted. Make room in the middle of the pot and add the garlic, chipotles in adobo, and chile de arbol, cook for a minute, then mix with the vegetables and cook for another minute. Add the tomatoes, the juices from the oysters, salt, and oregano and cook for about 6 to 7 minutes, until it is all simmering and thickening a bit.

America’s Test Kitchen Brown Rice Bowl with Vegetables and Salmon (Ep 2010)

Brown Rice Bowl with Vegetables and Salmon
Serves 4

If your knife is too dull to cut through the salmon skin, try a serrated knife. It is important to keep the skin on during cooking; once the salmon is cooked, the skin will be easy to remove. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant (about 1 minute), and then remove the skillet from the heat so the seeds won’t scorch. INGREDIENTS

¼ cup vegetable oil, divided
3 scallions, white and green parts separated and sliced thin on bias
2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger, divided
⅓ cup distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1¾ teaspoons table salt, divided, plus salt for cooking rice
1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and sliced on bias ¼ inch thick
1¾ cups short-grain brown rice
1 pound carrots, peeled and sliced on bias ½ inch thick
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed, caps larger than 2 inches halved
1 (1-pound) skin-on salmon fillet, about 1½ inches thick at thickest part
4 teaspoons hoisin sauce, divided
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
sriracha (optional)

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 500 degrees.

Milk Street Secrets of Oaxaca (Ep 321)

Oaxacan Green Mole with Chicken
Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes | Servings: 4

When we think of mole, we most often think of mahogany-colored mole negro. But as we learned in Oaxaca, there is a wide variety of moles, each with a unique character. Mole verde—or green mole— traditionally is made with pork and gets its bright, fresh flavor from a blend of fresh chilies, tomatillos and herbs. For our version, we opted for quicker-cooking but equally tasty chicken thighs, and we sought out supermarket substitutes for hard-to-find epazote and hoja santa, two herbs that are standard ingredients in Mexico (we mimicked their flavors with mint and fennel seeds). Oaxacans thicken this stew-like soup with masa, the corn dough used to make tortillas and tamales.

Pati’s Mexican Table – A Local’s Tour of Culiacan (801)

Enchiladas de Suelo
Makes 12 open enchiladas

Serves 6 as a main dish

 

 

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar, divided
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for frying
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided, plus more for boiling water
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup slivered red onion
5 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
1 garlic clove
2 ripe tomatoes, divided, 1 whole and 1 cut into thin slices
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped white onion
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 pound zucchini, halved lengthwise and cut into half-moons of about 1/2-inch
1 pound Mexican chorizo, casings removed, chopped
12 corn tortillas, store-bought or homemade
6 leaves of romaine lettuce, rinsed and thinly sliced
6 ounces (about 5 to 6) radishes, halved lengthwise and cut into half-moons of about 1/2-inch
1 ripe avocado, halved, pitted, cut into thin slices
1 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into slices
1 cup crumbled queso Cotija, ranchero or fresco

TO PREPARE

In a small bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons of white vinegar with the vegetable oil, a teaspoon of salt, and a dash of black pepper. Add the red onion, stir, and let macerate for at least 15 minutes or while you prepare the rest of the dish. Place the ancho chiles, garlic clove, and the whole tomato in a medium saucepan and cover with water. Set over medium-high heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes until the chiles have rehydrated and the tomato is cooked and mushy. Transfer the chiles, tomato, and garlic clove, along with 1 cup of their cooking liquid, to a blender.

America’s Test Kitchen Kung Pao Chicken (Ep 2009)

Kung Pao Chicken
Serves 4-6

Kung pao chicken should be quite spicy. To adjust the heat level, use more or fewer chiles, depending on the size (we used 2-inch-long chiles) and your taste. Have your ingredients prepared and your equipment in place before you begin to cook. Use a spice grinder or mortar and pestle to coarsely grind the Sichuan peppercorns. If Chinese black vinegar is unavailable, substitute sherry vinegar.

Milk Street New French Classics (Ep 320)

Beef, Orange and Olive Stew (Boeuf à la Gardiane)
Start to finish: 41⁄2 hours (1 hour active) | Servings: 6 to 8

This hearty stew from Camargue, in the south of France, is traditionally made with taureau, or bull meat, but beef is a common substitute. We use chuck roast, a fatty cut that becomes tender and succulent with simmering. The stew gets robust flavor from classic Provençal ingredients—red wine, olives, anchovies and garlic. Orange is traditional, too; it lends the braise a brightness that balances its depth and richness. A bold, full-bodied dry red wine such as Côtes du Rhône or syrah is ideal, as it holds its own among the other big flavors.

America’s Test Kitchen Paris-Brest (Ep 2007)

Paris-Brest
Serves 8-10

Paris-Brest is a showstopper dessert that consists of a large ring of pâte à choux—the same pastry used to make éclairs and cream puffs—that is filled with hazelnut praline pastry cream and then sprinkled with chopped almonds and powdered sugar. To make this elegant dessert foolproof, we started with our pâteà choux recipe, which created a tender, but strong“case” for the cream filling. For a light cream filling that was firm and sturdy, we started with a flour-thickened pastry cream (which was more stable than the normal cornstarch-thickened version), added pulverized caramel-coated hazelnuts, and then folded in whipped cream that had been enriched with gelatin. INGREDIENTS
Praline

½ cup (3 1/2 ounces) sugar
¼ cup water
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned
½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Pastry Dough

3 large eggs
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces
⅓ cup whole milk
⅓ cup water
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
¾ cup (3 3/4 ounces) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons toasted, skinned, and chopped hazelnuts

Cream Filling

2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin
¼ cup water
1½ cups half-and-half
5 large egg yolks
⅓ cup (2 1/3 ounces) sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces and chilled
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
1 cup heavy cream, chilled
confectioners’ sugar

INSTRUCTIONS
1. For the praline: Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper; spray parchment with vegetable oil spray and set aside.

Milk Street Cooking with Chilies (Ep 318)

Tacos al Pastor
Start to finish: 1 hour | Servings: 4

We combine tender broiled pork, spicy chilies and the subtle smokiness of charred pineapple in this take on tacos al pastor. The dish is from Mexico but has Levantine roots, stemming from the 19th century when Lebanese immigrants arrived, bringing their tradition of vertical spits for roasting lamb shawarma. Not finding much lamb, cooks switched to pork and instead of sandwiching the meat in flatbread, they used tortillas. Subsequent generations added pineapple and dried chilies. For everyday ease, we use pork tenderloin that has been pounded, briefly marinated and broiled.

America’s Test Kitchen Braised Chicken with Mustard and Herbs (Ep 2006)

Braised Chicken with Mustard and Herbs
Serves 4-6

Chicken breasts are broader at one end than the other, so cut more than halfway up each breast to create two pieces of equal mass (see “For More Equal Parts, Don’t Cut Down the Middle,” below). There’s no need to take the temperature of the dark meat; it will be properly cooked by the time the white meat reaches its target temperature. If you prefer not to serve the skin, wait until step 6 to remove it; browning the skin produces flavorful compounds that add complexity to the sauce, and braising it releases gelatin, which gives the sauce a rich texture. INGREDIENTS

½ cup table salt, for brining
1½-2 pounds bone-in split chicken breasts, trimmed and each cut crosswise into 2 pieces of equal mass
1½-2 pounds chicken leg quarters, separated into drumsticks and thighs, trimmed
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 onion, chopped fine
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
⅓ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1½ tablespoons whole-grain mustard
2 teaspoons lemon juice

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Dissolve salt in 2 quarts cold water in large container.

Milk Street The Austrian Table (Ep 317)

Austrian Beef Stew with Paprika and Caraway (Goulash)
Start to finish: 4 hours (30 minutes active) | Servings: 4 to 6

This simple stew derives much of its bold flavor and rich color from sweet and hot paprika, so make sure the paprika you use is fresh and fragrant. For the deepest, earthiest flavor, we recommend seeking out true Hungarian paprika; we use a combination of sweet and hot to achieve just the right degree of spice. Serve with egg noodles, spätzle or mashed potatoes. Don’t be shy about trimming the chuck roast; removing as much fat as possible before cooking prevents the stew from being extra-greasy. In our experience, the roast usually loses about 1 pound with trimming.

America’s Test Kitchen Pork, Fennel, and Lemon Ragu with Pappardelle (Ep 2005)

Pork, Fennel, and Lemon Ragu with Pappardelle
Serves 4-6

Pork butt roast is often labeled Boston butt in the supermarket. To ensure that the sauce isn’t greasy, be sure to trim the roast of all excess surface fat. You can substitute tagliatelle for the pappardelle, if desired.  
INGREDIENTS

4 ounces pancetta, chopped
1 large onion, chopped fine
1 large fennel bulb, 2 tablespoons fronds chopped, stalks discarded, bulb halved, cored, and chopped fine, divided
4 garlic clove, minced
1½ teaspoons table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme
1 teaspoon pepper
⅓ cup heavy cream
1 (1½-pound) boneless pork butt roast, well trimmed and cut in half across grain
1½ teaspoons grated lemon zest plus ¼ cup juice (2 lemons)
12 ounces pappardelle
2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (1 cup), plus extra for serving

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

Milk Street Amazing One-Layer Cakes (Ep 316)

Caprese Chocolate and Almond Torte
Start to finish: 1 hour 10 minutes (20 minutes active) | Servings: 10

This flourless chocolate cake from Capri, Italy (where it is called torta caprese), gets its rich, almost brownie-like texture from ground almonds and a generous amount of egg. Before grinding the nuts, we toast them to intensify their flavor and accentuate the deep, roasted notes of the chocolate. We preferred the cake made with bittersweet chocolate containing 70 to 80 percent cocoa solids. You can, of course, use a lighter, sweeter bittersweet chocolate, but the cake will have less chocolate intensity. Serve slices warm or at room temperature dolloped with unsweetened whipped cream.

America’s Test Kitchen Belgian Spice Cookies (Ep 2004)

Belgian Spice Cookies (Speculoos)
Makes 32 cookies

For the proper flavor, we strongly recommend using turbinado sugar (commonly sold as Sugar in the Raw). If you can’t find it, use ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) of packed light brown sugar and skip the sugar grinding in step 2. In step 3, use a rolling pin and a combination of rolling and a smearing motion to form a rectangle. If the dough spreads beyond the rectangle, trim it and use the scraps to fill in the corners; then, replace the parchment and continue to roll. Do not use cookie molds or an embossed rolling pin for the speculoos; they will not hold decorations.

Milk Street The New Paris (Ep 315)

Potato Gnocchi with Butter, Sage and Chives
Start to finish: 13⁄4 hours, 20 minutes for sauce | Servings: 4 to 6

Our take on classic potato gnocchi was inspired by a cooking lesson we got in Paris from chef Peter Orr at his Robert restaurant in the 11th arrondissement. It helps to have a kitchen scale to weigh out the 11⁄4 pounds of cooked potatoes needed to make the gnochhi dough. To process the cooked potatoes, a ricer or food mill works best for obtaining the smooth texture needed for light, fine gnocchi. A potato masher works, too, but the gnocchi will be slightly denser (yet still delicious). The gnocchi can be cooked, cooled completely, covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to a day.

America’s Test Kitchen Herb-Crusted Pork Roast (Ep 2003)

Herb-Crusted Pork Roast
Serves 4-6

If only “enhanced” pork is available (the label will state that the pork was injected with a water-salt solution), do not brine the roast. Instead, simply season the stuffed and tied roast with salt before browning. Note that you should not trim the pork of its layer of fat. While it is possible to substitute dried rosemary for fresh, do not substitute dried thyme for fresh or the herb crust will be dry and dusty tasting. The roasting time will vary widely depending on the thickness of the meat.

Milk Street Holiday Entertaining (Ep 314)

Argentinian-Style Stuffed Pork Loin with Chimichurri
Start to finish: 31⁄2 hours (1 hour active) | Servings: 8 to 10

This holiday-worthy roast was inspired by Argentinian matambre arrollado, or beef that is stuffed with hard-cooked eggs, vegetables and sliced cured meats, then poached or roasted. We opted for a boneless pork loin roast because its uniform shape makes it easy to cut into a 1⁄2- to 3⁄4-inch- thick slab ideal for filling and rolling. Herbal, garlicky and subtly spicy chimichurri is the perfect accompaniment to the sweet, mild pork; we use some inside the roast, too. You’ll need a digital instant thermometer to test the roast for doneness. For convenience, the chimichurri can be made and refrigerated in an airtight container up to a day ahead.

America’s Test Kitchen Pizza Al Taglio (Ep 2002)

Pizza al Taglio with Arugula and Fresh Mozzarella
Serves 4-6

The dough for this pizza requires a 16- to 24-hour rest in the refrigerator. You’ll get the crispest texture by using high-protein King Arthur bread flour, but other bread flours will also work. For the best results, weigh your flour and water. The bread flour should weigh 14⅔ ounces, regardless of which brand of flour is used. Anchovies give the sauce depth, so don’t omit them; they won’t make the sauce taste fishy.

Milk Street Tuesday Night Italian (Ep 313)

Pesto alla Genovese
Start to finish: 30 minutes | Makes about 1 cup

Good-quality cheese is essential for rich, full-flavored pesto. Seek out true Italian Parmesan, as well as pecorino Sardo, a sheep’s milk cheese from Sardinia. If you can’t find pecorino Sardo, don’t use pecorino romano, which is too strong; instead, opt for Manchego, a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese. Roughly chopping the basil by hand before adding it to the food processor minimizes the mechanical action needed to break down the leaves so the pesto won’t become too smooth. To store pesto, press a piece of plastic wrap against its surface and refrigerate up to 3 days.

Milk Street Beirut Fast Food (Ep 312)

Beef Kibbeh
Start to finish: 50 minutes (20 minutes active) | Servings: 4

Kibbeh, a popular dish throughout the Levant, is a spiced mixture of bulgur and ground meat. It may be layered with stuffing in a baking dish and baked or shaped into small portions, filled and fried, with the goal of getting a toasty, browned crust that brings out the nuttiness of the bulgur. In this version, we skip the stuffing and form the mixture into patties, then pan-fry them, rather than deep-fry, for ease. We use ground beef, but you could sub in 12 ounces of ground lamb. Pine nuts add their distinct, slightly resinous flavor to the mix.

Milk Street Sweets (Ep 311)

Maple-Whiskey Pudding Cakes
Start to finish: 45 minutes (20 minutes active) | Servings: 4

These individual desserts bake up with a gooey sauce beneath a layer of rich, tender cake. We tried a few different types of whiskey here: our favorites were Jameson for its clean, bright flavor and Rittenhouse rye for its spicy depth. This recipe can easily be doubled to serve eight. Serve the pudding cakes warm, with vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream. Don’t stir the maple-whiskey syrup into the batter after dividing it among the batter-filled ramekins.

Milk Street On the Road: Portland, Maine (Ep 310)

Eventide Green Salad with Nori Vinaigrette
Start to finish: 30 minutes, plus cooling and chilling | Servings: 6

This is our adaptation of a salad created by Eventide Oyster Co. in Portland, Maine. Roasted seaweed (also called nori) is pulverized to a coarse powder and added to the dressing, lending the dish deep, umami-rich flavor notes reinforced with soy sauce and mirin. Instead of using full- sized sheets of plain nori (the variety used for sushi), we opted for the convenience of an individual package of seasoned seaweed snacks that are available in most grocery stores. Quick-pickled veggies give the salad lots of texture and bright flavor, but keep in mind that they need to pickle for at least 2 hours before they’re ready to use.

Milk Street Italian Classics (Ep 308)

Tuscan Beef and Black Pepper Stew (Peposo alla Fornacina)
Start to finish: 4 hours (30 minutes active) | Servings: 6

The simple, generously peppered beef stew known as peposo is said to have been created by 15th century kiln (fornacina) workers in Tuscany, Italy. Chianti is the best-known wine produced in that region and is the traditional choice for peposo, but any dry, medium-bodied red wine works well. Make sure to use coarsely ground black pepper, as it has more presence and better coats the beef. This recipe makes a generous amount of stew—about 2 quarts—so serve it one night with polenta, mashed potatoes or braised beans. The stew keeps well, so it can be made up to three days ahead and reheated in the microwave or in a saucepan over low.